Aljažev dom v Vratih - Šmarjetna glava (via Koča na Doliču)
Starting point: Aljažev dom v Vratih (1015 m)
Lat/Lon: | 46,4128°N 13,8466°E |
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Name of path: via Koča na Doliču
Time of walking: 6 h 55 min
Difficulty: difficult pathless terrain
Altitude difference: 1343 m
Altitude difference po putu: 1700 m
Map: TNP 1:50.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, ice axe, crampons
Views: 1.330
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Access to the starting point:
Take the Mojstrana, then follow the signs for the Vrata valley. Initially still asphalted, but then mostly dirt road, after about 12 km from the centre of Mojstrana you will reach a large parking lot in the Vrata valley. During the summer season, a parking fee is charged.
Path description:
From the parking lot, continue along the macadam road closed to public traffic, which takes you past Šlajmer's house and quickly to the Aljaž's house in Vrata.
Go around the Aljaž's house on the right and continue straight on in the direction of Triglav, Sovatna, Luknja. . . (Škrlatica on the right, bivouac at Dwarf pines. . . ). Continue along the worse macadam road, which leads us past the winter room to a marked crossroads by the famous wedge (monument to the fallen partisan mountaineers).
Continuing straight on again (left Tominškova path), the gently sloping path leads us along beautiful views of Triglav and Triglav's north face. After a few minutes of further walking, when we arrive in the beech forest, a path branches off to the right across the Sovatna River, and we continue straight on in the direction of Luknja and Triglav - the path across the Prag. There is a short climb up the cart track, and then signs direct us to the left, on a path that approaches the Triglav Bistrica riverbed. Here the path leads us past a memorial to the victims of the mountains, and a little further on we arrive at the next marked crossroads.
To the left, across the stream, the path continues over the Prag, and we continue straight ahead, along a path that gradually begins to climb more visibly. The path towards Luknja climbs moderately for a while, but becomes steeper and more and more scenic higher up. A little higher still, the path leads us through lane of bushes and sparse forest, where a path branches off to the right towards the nearby bivouac, and we continue along a wider path which leads us a little further out of the forest belt. The path becomes a little steeper, gradually leading to the scree below Luknja. The path over the scree is quite slippery, but when we arrive at the foot of the walls, we are also helped by the ropes (not difficult on land, but they come in handy especially when descending). For a short time we climb steeply up along the wall, then the path turns slightly right and leads us a little higher to the crossroads at Luknja, from where we get a nice view of the mountains above Zadnjica.
From Luknja continue straight down (left Triglav over Plemenice (Bamberg route), right Bovški Gamsovec and the pathless approach to Pihavec) and start descending on the old mulatier. Initially the path leads over a small undercut, where some caution is needed due to the increased possibility of falling rocks. The descent over the steep Korites follows, and we descend on a wide path, as the old mulatier is still relatively well preserved, despite the considerable steepness. After about 40 minutes of descending, where we lose more than 300 vertical metres, we arrive at a marked crossroads. From the crossroads continue slightly left in the direction of Dolič (slightly right Zadnjica) and start climbing again. In the following, we mostly climb moderately on the mule track, which leads us over steep and sometimes exposed precipitous slopes. As the path is wide and well laid, it is not technically difficult, but it is exposed to falling rocks and, due to the occasional deep views, it is mostly not suitable for vertigo. The trail occasionally makes a few serpentines, but otherwise most of the time it climbs transversely to the right, so that we are getting closer and closer to the mighty wall of Kanjavac.
Higher up, the climbing route from Zadnjica over Komar joins us from the right, and a little further on, the route of Mira Marko Debelakova (the route over the Kanjavč shelves) branches off to the right. The increasingly scenic route makes a few more serpentines higher up, and the route to Triglav branches off from it to the left.
Continue straight ahead and you will quickly reach the Hut na Doliču.
From the hut, continue in the direction Vodnikov dom, and we follow the marked path for a short distance, or until we reach a place where a beautiful passage opens on our left (we leave the marked path before the Dolič saddle). Continue up to the left onto a trackless path. Climb up the rocky slope to the ridge, which opens up a view of Šmarjetno glava. Take the saddle on the left side of Šmarjetna glava.
At the saddle, continue to the right along a steep ridge marked with a few cairns. The ridge becomes a little steeper and a short section requires some easier climbing (1st degree). Just below the summit, where the ridge is steepest, the cairns direct us to the right and there is a short climb up a slightly exposed and rubbly slope to the summit.
Door - Luknja 2:30, Luknja - Koča na Doliču 3:10, Koča na Doliču - Šmarjetna glava 1:15.
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Discussion about the trail Aljažev dom v Vratih - Šmarjetna glava (via Koča na Doliču)
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ljubitelj gora10. 08. 2017 |
Lani se tudi odpravil na Šmarjetno glavo, začel sem v Krmi in mimo Planike na Triglav, spust proti Doliču. Obiskal še bivak Lojza in Glavo v Zaplanji in na koncu še na Šmarjetno glavo. Vrnil se čez Velsko dolino mimo Vodnikovega doma nazaj v Krmo.
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