Unterpirkach - Hochstadel (ÖTK - Klettersteig Pirknerklamm)

Access to the starting point:
From Ljubljana, through the Karavanke Tunnel and then along the motorway to Spittal. We continue driving towards Lienz, and we follow the Drava Valley to Oberdrauburg, where we turn left towards Kötschach and the Plöckenpass. Just after the River Drava and the railway line, turn right (at the crossroads there are a number of signs, including for the Hochstadelhaus) and we follow a slightly narrower road to Unterpirkach. Here, just 10 metres before the larger chapel on your right, turn left (here you can see the first signs for the climbing route) and follow the tarmac road for another 100 metres before the signs "OTK-Klettersteig Pirknerklamm" direct you right onto a dirt road, which quickly leads you to the parking lot.

Path description:
From the parking lot, continue along the macadam road, which takes you past the house and into the forest. Continue along the forest path, which runs along the left side of the Pirkner Bach stream. The path soon leads to a crossroads where the signs "Einstieg ÖTK Klettersteig" direct you right down to the stream where the climbing route begins.
The climbing route runs along the stream and climbs vertically over a boulder at the start with the help of a number of pegs. The path then crosses the rocky slopes just above the stream and then leads to a small steel track which leads across the stream to the right. After a short crossing, the path ascends vertically with the help of wedges and leads us to the next bridge, which crosses the stream again on the left side. Above the bridge, there is a vertical wall to the left and then a short climb up to a boulder on which there is a registration box. Climb over a few boulders, then cross a short bridge that runs right next to a waterfall. Again, the bridge is made of just two cables. One is for walking and the other for holding on and self-belaying. Continue climbing from boulder to boulder for a while, and then the stream gorge turns slightly to the left. Here we climb up the rocky slope on the left side of the stream and soon we see a dam in front of us over which the Regenbogen Wasserfall falls. Use the pegs to climb almost vertically upwards along the waterfall.
Above the waterfall, the stream bed becomes flatter and there is some walking along the stream. Then cross the stream to the right and continue walking along the stream. The trail then leads to the last climbing section, where you first cross the vertical rock slope above the stream and then climb up alongside the dam to the right using a number of scrambles.
Here the climbing route ends and there is a climb in keys through the forest. At first the path is still protected by a steel belay, but then a gentler slope leads to a crossroads. To the right the path leads back to the starting point, to the left the path leads to the Hochstadelhaus hut.
If you continue towards the Hochstadelhaus, you continue up a narrow path through the forest and soon join the normal path towards the hut. Continue on the well-trodden path, which crosses the road at a higher level (the road is closed to public traffic), then returns to the forest and leads us past Hilda's smoking bench, back to the forest road. The marked path crosses the road a few more times, or continues on it for a short time. Higher up, the forest thins out, opening up beautiful views to the east, where you can see the River Drava and part of the Zilj Alps. Higher up, the trail returns to the road, which is then followed all the way to the Hochstadelhaus mountain hut.
From the mountain hut, continue slightly to the right (direction Hochstadel) and climb through a short lane of a forest to the mountain pasture Unholdenalm. Here you walk to the right side of mountain pasture, where you rejoin the road at a couple of huts. There is a short, steep climb on a deteriorating road before arriving at a marked crossroads.
Continue slightly to the right in the route "Hochstadel - route No 218, 3 h" and continue the ascent on a moderately ascending path. The trail, which continues through extensive grazing areas, turns right at a higher altitude and climbs steeply for a short distance. The path soon turns left and almost completely flattens out. There follows a folded traverse which passes beneath the walls of the 2283 m-high Rudnigkofl. When the traverse ends, the path turns right and climbs in a few switchbacks over steep and, especially in the wet, slippery slopes. After a short steep climb, you reach a ridge with a view, and the trail turns sharply to the left, where it lays down again. There is a short scramble over an exposed ridge before the path switches to less steep slopes. We continue climbing along an increasingly scenic route, which leads us through a series of several small valleys. Higher up, the path becomes slightly steeper and, just below the summit, slightly exposed in places. Follow this very scenic route, which in the last part passes just a few metres away from the mighty precipice, all the way to the top of Hochstadl.

On the way: Regenbogen Wasserfall (730m), Hochstadelhaus (1780m), Planina Unholdenalm (1800m)

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