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Mountain ranges / Julian Alps / Dolkova špica / Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica (on SE ridge)

Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica (on SE ridge)

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Starting point: Aljažev dom v Vratih (1015 m)
Lat/Lon: 46,4128°N 13,8466°E
Name of path: on SE ridge
Time of walking: 5 h
Difficulty: very difficult pathless terrain
Altitude difference: 1576 m
Altitude difference po putu: 1576 m
Map: Triglav 1.25.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, ice axe, crampons, lamp
Author: JusAvgustin
Views: 18.137
 5 people like this post
Number of pictures: 10
Number of comments: 15
Access to the starting point:
Leave the Gorenjska motorway at the Hrušica exit and follow the road towards Kranjska Gora. Just before the village of Dovje, the road branches off to the left and leads to Mojstrana (Vrata, Kot and Krma). Follow the road in the direction of the Vrata valley and follow it to the large parking lot near the Aljaž's home.
Path description:
From the parking lot, continue along the macadam road, which after a 3-minute walk leads to the crossroads at Aljaževem dom.
Continue right in the direction of Škrlatica and Dolkova špica along the path which leads us across the meadow into the forest. Continue up the initially gently sloping cart track, which changes to a slightly steeper footpath higher up. Soon, however, the path leads to the bed of a torrent, along which it climbs for only a short distance before turning right and climbing steeply through the forest. The path then turns to the left, where it crosses a short avalanche-prone slope, and then gradually passes onto the slopes below Stenar. The slopes continue to climb up the aforementioned slopes, which are lightly covered with dwarf pines and individual larch trees. Higher up, the path leads to a small crossroads where we continue right in the direction of Škrlatica (left Stenar along an unmarked path through Stenar gate. The path climbs only a short way, then lays down and leads us to a larger crossroads where we continue right in the direction of Škrlatica (left bivouac 2 minutes and Križ 1:30). The path crosses a small scree slope and then turns sharply to the right (left Stenar gate). Next, cross a slightly exposed shelf (slip hazard), after which you will reach the pastures below Dolka's Spit.
The route starts a good half an hour from the bivouac on a grassy jetty exactly below the SE fork Dolkova špica. First we climb on steep grass and here and there it is necessary to climb over some rocks. Later in the wall we look for the easiest passages between chimneys and ravines. In principle, keep to the right side of the wall. At the difficult orientation points, cairn is waiting for us. The steepness does not let up until Lower Dolkova špica 2541 m. a. s. l. , but here the true ridge only really begins. The ridge is about 1 km long, the difficulties are moderate, only the passage into the notch requires a safe and calm step. This may even be the most challenging part of the whole tour.
From the summit, descend to Rdeča škrbina, where you then have two options, either towards the bivouac at Dwarf pines, better known as bivouac IV, or to Last Dolek and descend via cirque between Škrlatica and the Dolka Spit.
zemljovid puta - Dolkova špica
On the way: Bivak na Rušju (1980m)
We recommend: trips from the same starting point, similar trips, panorama, Inscription book
Pictures:
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica1
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica2
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica3
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica4
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica5
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica6
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica7
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica8
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica9
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica10
Discussion about the trail Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica (on SE ridge)
SilvestrO16. 08. 2011
Dolkova špica - JV greben -14.8.2011. Izmed različnih ciljev je že nekaj časa najbolj "štrlela" ravno ta špica.
S poti proti Škrlatici sem na travah krenil v levo, ter si na travnatem sedelcu pri možicu nadel čelado. Od tu naprej gre malo bolj zares..., verjetno sem rinil preveč levo, kajti na možice sem spet naletel tik pod S.Dolkovo špico. Na vršnem grebenu proti glavnemu vrhu sem bil deležen krasnih razgledov na vse strani,...pripekalo je pa tudieek
Z Dolkove špice sem sestopil v Rdečo škrbino ter se povzpel še na Rogljico, dodal kamen na možica in se nato "zrikvercal" nazaj na škrbino. Za Rakovo špico pa je zmanjkalo volje,...jo je izsušilo soncezmeden velik nasmeh
Kljub temu je bil mali šodrovček v meni zadovoljen in sem veselo sestopil do Aljaževega doma na dolge požirke ...saj veste česavelik nasmeh.
SilvestrO13. 09. 2011
Še nekaj slikc...
Dina11. 08. 2012
Prejšnjo nedeljo opravila vzpon skupaj z izkušenim gornikom, opis je lepo podan, samo enkrat sva malce "zalutala", vendar sva takoj ugotovila, da je malce prehudo in obrnila v kontra smer,kjer se je po krajšem času pojavil možic in povedal, da je vse ok....možici so redki, ko pa jih zagledaš, si vesel, da si na pravi poti nasmeh.
Uživala v poplezavanju, miru, lepih razgledih....tisti dan sva bila edina na vrhu. Vesela in ponosna, da je tale šodrovska klasika na mojem meniju nasmeh
ljubitelj gora19. 08. 2013
Če bo za vikend vreme bi se po tej poti odpravil na vrh, če koga zanima ima v planu se lahko dobimo v Vratih.
jesihar5. 09. 2013
Je mogoče pot opisana tudi v kakšnem vodniku?
pikica15. 09. 2013
Ja je v vodniku od Tineta Miheliča, Severni pristopi - Julijske Alpe
Lp.
JusAvgustin6. 09. 2013
vsi, ki so šli po tem opisu pravijo, da je tale čisto dovolj nasmeh lepo lahko poplezavanjemežikanje pa srečno!
Jovan Cukut9. 09. 2013
Nekaj več o vzponu po najbolj ''razklanem'' (po mojem mnenju) grebenu v Julijcih v slikah in komentarjih na spodnji povezavi.

https://picasaweb.google.com/113805105178377351223/JVGrebenDolkoveSpice0709201302#
Jonny_23. 07. 2014
V nedeljo tale kaos od gore kot (zasilni) plan B. Tura je resna, hiteti se ne da, razen, če že na pamet poznaš prehode. Plezanje v tem širokem in nepreglednem pobočju je možno povsod, zato "pravih" in "napačnih" prehodov ni, na opise pa se zaradi vseh možnosti tudi ne preveč zanašati. Tudi na možice slepo ne, saj te lahko tudi zavedejo. Napredovati vsekakor najprej z glavo.

https://picasaweb.google.com/117716969375992242593/DolkovaSpica2072014?noredirect=1
JusAvgustin23. 07. 2014
lepo dokumentirano, midva z Matejem sva sicer začela že spodaj v grapi/žlebu in se izognila mučnim travam na dostopu do raza
ljubitelj gora23. 07. 2014
Jonny, rdečo kapico sta tud mela s sebojnasmeh
_sandra_24. 07. 2014
Matej škoda, da niso povabili še tebe, pa bi bili 4-peresna deteljica, ne? velik nasmeh
ljubitelj gora25. 07. 2014
so vsi trije člani Alpinsitičnega odseka, tko da nisem ravno zaželjen med takimizavijanje z očmi
Climber917. 09. 2020
Z punco sva opravila to turo v soboto. Malo me je presenetil šoder na celotni poti, vmes sva naletela na 4 možice, ki sva jih bila neskončno vesela velik nasmeh
Kakor pravi Mihelič, si tudi jaz nisem bil na trenutke na jasnem ali sem v plezalni smeri ali na brezpotju. Sva pa vmes tudi zašla definitivno, ker se tega prehoda v škrbino ne spomnimzmedenvelik nasmeh
Na celotni turi sva bila sama, 2 sva srečala na vrhu Dolkove špice, proti Škrlatici pa kar pestro.
     
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