Ciampac - Colac (Ferrata dei Finanzieri)
Starting point: Ciampac (2142 m)
Lat/Lon: | 46,4575°N 11,7881°E |
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Name of path: Ferrata dei Finanzieri
Time of walking: 2 h 50 min
Difficulty: extremely difficult marked way
Ferata: C
Altitude difference: 573 m
Altitude difference po putu: 650 m
Map: Tabacco 07 1:25.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, self belay set
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, self belay set, ice axe, crampons
Views: 4.705
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Access to the starting point:
a) From Kranjska Gora via the Koren saddle to Austria, where at the first major junction continue left towards Podkloštro / Arnoldstein and Trbiz / Tarvisio. At the end of Podklošter, the signs for Šmohor / Hermagor direct you to the right on the regional road, which takes you past this town to the end of the Ziljska valley, or more precisely to Kötschach-Mauthen, where you turn right towards Oberdrauburg. The road continues over the Gailbergsattel Alpine pass (982 m), after which you descend into the above-mentioned town. After crossing a bridge over the River Drava, turn left towards Lienz. At the main roundabout in Lienz, turn left towards Sillian and Itali. Next, cross the national border between Austria and Itali and follow the main road to Dobbiaco/Toblach, where you turn left towards Cortina d'Ampezzo. Once in Cortina d'Ampezzo, follow the signs for the Passo Falzarego Alpine pass. At the Falzarego Pass (2105 m) there is a crossroads where you continue straight down towards Marmolada and the Passo Fedaia Pass. At the following junctions, follow the road towards Marmolada and the aforementioned pass. After the Fedaia Pass (2057 m), which is located by the artificial lake Lagho di Fedaia, the road starts to descend again and we follow it to the beginning of Alba, where we will see the Ciampac cable car (swing) on the left. Park in the large parking lot at the bottom station of the cable car. Then buy a ticket and drive to the top station of the Ciampac cable car. From Kranjska Gora to the starting point is about 280 km.
b) From Kranjska Gora via Border crossing Rateče to Trbiz / Tarvisio and then on the motorway to Udine. Leave the motorway at Tolmezzo, from where you continue driving towards Ampezzo and on to the Alpine pass Passo della Mauria (1298 m). The road then starts to descend and leads into the Cadore valley, where you continue to the right towards Auronzo di Cadore. At the next crossroads follow the signs for Cortina d'Ampezzo. When you arrive in Cortina d'Ampezzo, follow the signs for the Passo Falzarego Alpine pass. At the Falzarego Pass (2105 m) there is a crossroads where you continue straight down towards Marmolada and the Passo Fedaia Pass. At the following junctions, follow the road towards Marmolada and the aforementioned pass. After the Fedaia Pass (2057 m), which is located by the artificial lake Lagho di Fedaia, the road starts to descend again and we follow it to the beginning of Alba, where we will see the Ciampac cable car (swing) on the left. Park in the large parking lot at the bottom station of the cable car. Then buy a ticket and drive to the top station of the Ciampac cable car. From Kranjska Gora to the starting point is approximately 270 km.
c) From Nova Gorica, drive into Itali and continue on the motorway to Portogruaro, where at the motorway junction you will turn towards Belluno. Follow the motorway to the exit for Belluno, and after Belluno follow the road towards Agordo and then Marmolada and the Passo Fedaia Alpine pass. After the Fedaia Pass (2057 m), which is situated by the artificial lake Lagho di Fedaia, the road starts to descend and we follow it until we reach the beginning of Alba, where we will see the Ciampac cable car (swing) on the left hand side. Park in the large parking lot at the bottom station of the cable car. Then buy a ticket and drive to the top station of the Ciampac cable car. From the Slovenian border to the starting point is about 245 km.
Path description:
From the top station of the pendulum, continue along the road for a few dozen metres to the signposts. At the signs, turn left after the signs "Ferrata dei Finanzieri". Continue gently down a dirt road for some time, which leads to another crossroads. This time the signs point to the right and there is a short descent and then a crossing of grassy slopes, which leads to the foot of the slopes of Mount Colac.
Continue slightly to the left and start to climb on scree, which leads to the entrance to the climbing part of the route.
In the initial part you climb up along a small rope, then for a short time the slightly easier unprotected part of the route follows again. There is a traverse left along a steel beam and then a steep climb up a gully to the left. The path then climbs quite steeply up the rocky slope, with a few scrambles to help. This path then leads us to a slightly overhanging jump over which we are helped by a number of scrambles. Higher up, the path then climbs steeply all the time, and in a few places you need some strength in your arms. A relatively long climb up the steep northern slopes of the mountain leads us to a ridge from which we have a beautiful view towards Marmolada. Continue to the right and a slightly less steep path soon leads to the summit.
The Ferrata dei Finanzieri climbing route is one of the most difficult routes in Dolomites and is only suitable for experienced climbers with compulsory self-guiding.
We descend by a slightly easier route, which runs along the southern slopes of the mountain. At a crossroads a little lower down, you can continue to the right towards the upper pendulum station or to the left towards the parking lot at the lower pendulum station.
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Discussion about the trail Ciampac - Colac (Ferrata dei Finanzieri)
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tagec3. 09. 2015 |
Včerajšna sreda se začne oblačna,napoved ni najboljša,ker pa je najin zadnji dan v Dolomitih,ga izkoristiva za bližnji vrh Colac.Z gondolo se zapeljeva na Ciampac,zabasano je,ampak ne izgleda da bo dež.Ferrata Finanzieri je zelo lepo speljana po naravnih prehodih,zelo dobro zavarovana in nama se nikakor ni zdela težka.Pridruži se nama gornik iz Nemčije,ki ni hotel sam po ferrati zaradi vremena in tako skupaj naredimo celo turo.Spust poteka po drugi strani na JZ stran proti Marmoladi,hitro smo navzdol,tako da prehitimo dež,ki nas ujame malo pred gondolo.Če ne bi bili hitri(3ure cel krog),bi bilo kar zoprno v steni!!Bili pa smo edeini v ferrati,ki naj bi bila zelo priljubljena
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