Gozd Martuljek - Rigljica (normal approach)

Access to the starting point:
From Mojstrana drive to Kranjska Gora or vice versa, but only as far as the village of Gozd-Martuljek, where you park in the parking lot near the bridge over the Sava Dolinka river (the parking lot is located behind the bridge, or in front if you are coming from Kranjska Gora).

Path description:
From GM, head towards Kurje Summit. In cirque below Rigljica, at the boulder marked PP, turn left along the scree to the ridge between Kurji vrh and Rigljica. Walking on the rubble can be very strenuous, so keep to the right side, which has a nice lane of dwarf pines. Without any major problems, we reach the ridge, and from there, the admittedly rare cairns indicate the way ahead. A barely visible path winds along the slopes above Pišenco, and sometimes the path also looks into the northern walls. The path as we approach the summit building soon leads us to a notch, where the leisurely hike is over.
The first wall is about 100 m high. Climb it straight ahead, or slightly to the right, following the obvious cleft (easy grade I), traverse right at the level for about 30 m and then bite into the second wall. This direction is also more to the right, and can be guided by the belly rock around which the route passes. Continue along the gully, where, higher up on a pine tree root, you will come across an anchorage for the descent on your return. From the root, climb slightly left and in a pleasant scramble (grade II) reach the crest of the headland. Follow the ridge to the left to reach the descent anchorage. From there, descend into a fallen gully for about 15 m. The last barrier, which is a detail of the tour, climbs steeply ahead. 20 metres of the gully have to be climbed before we can be clamped on a comfortable shelf in the anchorage. The hardest part can be bypassed on the right. On a very exposed ledge and around the edge on sloping slabs to the summit scramble (level II). But since we are now standing on a ledge, we have another wall ahead of us, which we climb diagonally to the right to a huge boulder where there is an anchorage for the descent. Now we have two options: the first is to go right around the edge and over the rock step to the summit scramble. The second option is for the brave: from the rock where you are standing, there is a distinct rockfall/rock towards the top. It is completely undercut in the left flank, so you have to climb right at once. The exposure is magnificent, the rock is crumbly. The cleft runs right to the top of the scrotum. We are standing on the Rigljica buttress, to get to the top, where there is a registration box, we have to descend to the collapsed crack, which we climb on the right. The main difficulties are over, there is still a stretch of scrotum to the top. Rigljica is considered by many to be the most difficult climb yet described in mountaineering and mountaineering guidebooks. Due to the jam, the detail reaches a good three. The detail is "packed". The world is opaque and orientation is difficult. The return route is along the route of ascent. The anchorages for the descent have been cleared and the auxiliary ropes replaced. The route is a UIAA level III/II mountaineering ascent. It is compulsory to be accompanied by an experienced mountaineer, preferably an alpinist.
Equipment is self-evident on this tour.

For consideration: the tour can also be connected with the nearby Rušica.
From Rigljica, descend back to a suitable point, where you head towards the large boulders. Pass the boulders to the Rušica cut and follow it over the slab to the top. Difficulties do not exceed level II. The route is extremely wild and I highly recommend it. To descend from the top of Rušica, return along the same route. Over the last post descend the rope-regulated descent.

On the way: Ingotova koča na planini Jesenje (930m), Bivak pod Špikom (1424m), Kurji vrh (1762m), Rušica (2096m)

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