Gozd Martuljek - Široka peč
Starting point: Gozd Martuljek (750 m)
Lat/Lon: | 46,4821°N 13,8378°E |
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Time of walking: 5 h
Difficulty: very difficult pathless terrain
Altitude difference: 1747 m
Altitude difference po putu: 1750 m
Map: Kranjska Gora 1:30.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, lamp
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, ice axe, crampons, lamp
Views: 27.734
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Access to the starting point:
From Mojstrana drive to Kranjska Gora or vice versa, but only as far as the village of Gozd-Martuljek, where you park in the parking lot near the bridge over the Sava Dolinka river (the parking lot is located behind the bridge, or in front if you are coming from Kranjska Gora).
Path description:
From the parking lot, continue along the main road towards Kranjska Gora, but only to the point where the cycle path branches off to the left (there are also mountain signs at the start of the cycle path, which also direct you to the road). Follow the cycle path to the first crossroads, where you continue straight onto the dirt road (the cycle path turns right), which quickly leads you to the next crossroads.
Continue to the right and follow the road closed to traffic until you reach the TNP signpost. Further on, the path splits into two parts. Continue straight up the steep cart track, which climbs up the right-hand side of the Martuljška gorge. The cart track, which climbs mostly through the forest, leads us after 15 minutes to a beautiful viewpoint where a view of the valley opens up. The path then goes back into the forest and continues to climb. A little further on, the path from the waterfall joins us from the left, and a little further on, the path to the bivouac under Špikom branches off to the right. We continue in the direction of Ingot's hut. The way forward leads us to a crossroads, where we continue straight on, the path to the left leads to Ingot's hut to which is a two-minute walk.
The way forward is initially a steep climb but only for a while. The path then crosses a small well and climbs steeply on the other side. The steepness begins to give way to the path leads us to a crossroads, where we continue slightly to the right in the direction of the bivouac Za Akom (left Zgornji waterfall 10 minutes). The way forward is still some time steeply climbs, and then the path leads us to a more difficult part. First we cross a steep grassy slope with the help of a rope, and then, still with the help of fixed safety gear, we cross an exposed shelf (watch your head, slightly overhanging rock above us). The path continues to be guarded (the guards here are mainly due to the wet terrain), and then starts to climb steeply and, after a few minutes of further walking, leads us to the most difficult part. With the help of artificial steps and a rope, we cross a smooth and damp rock slab, and then cross a short, very steep wall, which is also well guarded (great care is needed because of the damp slope). The steepness of the slopes then eases and after a short climb, the still damp path leads us to the edge of the mighty gravels. We are at the junction of two ravines, we continue on the left, and the view of the mighty Široka peč begins to open up in front of us. At the end the gully splits into several parts, we continue along the right gully to the first smooth wedged boulder (8m III. ), which we climb on the left (if the left side is wet, we have no choice but to climb it in the middle, which increases the difficulty!), we climb up the gully, the route is indicated by cairns. We are already in front of a smooth jump(15m II. ), which we start climbing on the left (beam, wedge for belaying), to a small flattening. Now it's a scrambly, broken climb (15m, II. ) to a green jetty, where you can rest for a while.
Continue straight ahead towards the V pillar Široka peč, to the rock barrier. We retreat to the right of the barrier, with a few metres to go to the first key point of the climb. We are in front of a 30m rock jump that closes the passage to the amphitheatre. The jump is divided into two parts, the first part is easy and can be climbed without belaying, in the second part belaying is compulsory (III+), there are enough pegs and there is also an anchorage. From the anchorage we head on towards easier rock ledges, which we climb from right to left (50m I. ) and we find ourselves in the Amphitheatre. Continue towards the cirque buttress, to a prominent ridge (100m I. -II. ) in the SP building. Climb the ridge to a notch, then descend by rope (anchorages are equipped, as is the descent into the notch). From the notch, continue along a reddish gully (crumbly, slippery), to the ridge crest (100m I. -II. ). A metre before the ridge, turn right and cross the smooth slabs (I. ) to the next notch. There is a second key spot: cross to the right, on an exposed ledge(I. -II. )(for a detour, you can descend from the notch to the gully and continue to the ridge, but the gully is steep and difficult). Now we are only a stretch of climbing away on a broken and scattered world to the main summit of Široka Peć.
The climb from Gozd Martuljka to Široka peč is considered an alpinist climb, so make sure you go with someone who has been to the summit before, preferably a mountain guide.
The Broad Stove is well equipped
Pictures:
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Discussion about the trail Gozd Martuljek - Široka peč
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JusAvgustin21. 10. 2010 |
pod zahtevnostjo, da ni podatka to ne drži. gre za zelo zahtevno brezpotje, alpinistični vzpon. iz gozd martuljka je težje kakor iz smeri dovškega križa, slednje je II-III(grebensko prečenje do glavnega stolpa), iz GM pa zaradi skoka pred vstopom v amfiteater II-III+(30m). močno priporočam turo ljubiteljem brezpotij in poplezavanja, saj ta mogočna gora nima skoraj nič obiska. kot zanimivost: od leta 1998, odkar je gor vpisna knjiga sva se s kolegom vpisala pod 243. in 244. Mogoče še majhen komentar na turo, glede opreme: priporočam dvojno vrv 2x60m saj so abzajli daljši in se je potrebno poabzajlat manjkrat. je pa zato več dela z vrvjo... vsak naj presodi sam. kakorkoli že, kdor bo stal na vrhu naj se ozre naokoli saj je divjina nepopisna. varen vzpon vam želim.
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dprapr11. 08. 2014 |
Da je lažje z DK, mi nekako ne gre skupaj. V smeri ŠP že, ker se lahko v škrbino nad žlebom spustimo po vrvi, kaj pa nazaj? Razen, če se vračamo nazaj preko amfiteatra in navzgor na DK po krušljivem žlebu? Juš, sedaj je zaporedna št. 273.
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lijaneja11. 08. 2014 |
V čast mi je, da je ena od zadnjih treh številk moja.
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dprapr1. 09. 2014 |
Popravek na moj zgornji zapis: zaporedna zaključna številka ob našem obisku je bila 373. Torej je tudi povprečni letni obisk večji, kot sem nekje zapisal, cca 23 in ne 17. Da sem število zmanjšal za 100, sem opazil potem, ko sem videl posnetke vpisne knjige predhodnikov.
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ljubitelj gora1. 09. 2014 |
Število vpisov v knjigo nima vedno veze po številu obiskov. Dost je takih, ki se ne vpisujejo
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JusAvgustin1. 09. 2014 |
še posebej ti, ki si bil tolikokrat gor, kajne?
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dprapr1. 09. 2014 |
Matej, dost verjetno ne, tu pa tam kakšen pa že!
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bosketi29. 10. 2014 |
Za naj z Ljubiteljem gora je tole sprehot..tist podpis nima nobenga pomena.
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katja8725. 09. 2015 |
V torek sva izkoristila še zadnji lep dan pred sneženjem in se podala na to čudovito goro, ki je bila že dolgo velika želja. Vreme nama je bilo naklonjeno, prav tako razmere, skala pa že precej mrzla, seveda primerno temu času Razgledi pa za bogove Tura je zares spoštovanja vredna in je za sam vzpon treba imeti kar nekaj kilometrine za sabo, dobro kondicijsko pripravljenost, obenem pa tudi znanje iz plezanja in vrvne tehnike. Sva pa zelo ponosna, da sva se lahko v vpisno knjigo vpisala pod številki 424 in 425 Več slik in opis poti pa na spletni strani Planinskega društva Matica Murska Sobota: http://www.pdmaticams-drustvo.si/ (glej: Album slik!)
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andrejp12. 11. 2015 |
za včeraj bi rad samo dodal, da sva prvi balvan ki predstavlja oviro preplezala po desni strani, ki je veliko lažja kot leva stran, ki je mokra in spolzka A in J
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dprapr12. 11. 2015 |
Kaj pa fotke? Zakaj bi samo vidva uživala...
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andrejp12. 11. 2015 |
mam na FB ,tukaj se ne dajo, razen če odprem temo na razmerah
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andrejp19. 06. 2017 |
Včeraj na Široki peči skozi amfiteater in po grebenu na Dovški križ. Sneg ni nikjer ovira, varovala so ok. Mi smo se potem spustil iz sedla Grlo ( 2x30m vrvi ), mimo Treh macesnov do izhodišča. Iz sedla do sidrišča za 1 spust je še sneg in rabiš zimsko opremo.
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ljubitelj gora19. 06. 2017 |
sem vas videl, slikal, mi smo bli na Škrnatarici
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Dr.ejči7. 08. 2017 |
5.8., verjetno najbolj množičen dnevni obisk?...vpisani 470, 471, 472, 473, 474, 475, 476...dobr, hudo dobr!!!!
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dprapr7. 08. 2017 |
16.7.08 jih je bilo najmanj osem.
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Dr.ejči7. 08. 2017 |
Ufff...za toliko nazaj pa res nisem brskal ...potemtakem drugi?
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dprapr7. 08. 2017 |
Nas je bilo šest, pa še dva sta prihajala po grebenu na vrh. Morda še kdo tisti dan...
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dprapr5. 10. 2017 |
Zanimivo, pijete Laško in plezate na Široko peč. Čistokrvni Slovenci.
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Shkaro5. 10. 2017 |
Hhahaha, hvala
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Marecar4. 08. 2019 |
Danes iz Dovškega križa na Široko peč. Zahtevna gora. Ta gora pa zahteva malo plezalca. Brez vrvi ne bi šlo. Vpisan 539. In kolega 537 in 538, brez katerih mi ta podvig ne bi uspel, ker jaz nisem imel vrvi. Onadva sta šla pa že večkrat, pa sta me prijazno povabila zraven. Prezadovoljen ... Ko pa to preplezaš, pa spoznaš da gore kot so: Škrlatica, Veliki Oltar, Vrh nad Mužici, Mrzla gora, Razor, Jalovec, Mangart in podobno, niso niti približno tako zahtevne gore ..., edino spodnji, srednji in Visoki Rokav so kar zalogaj. Lep Pozdrav vsem ljubiteljem gora ...
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Grega9228. 06. 2020 |
V sredo 24.6 na Široko peč iz GM. Pristopna grapa še v celoti zalita s snegom, tako da je napredovanje hitro. Snežišče je še pod najtežjim delom, skokom v Amfiteater,in pa na pristopu na gredino na koncu krnice, drugje ne povzroča težav, pride prav pri sestopu . Na vrhu vpisana pod številko 559 in 560.Za sestop so urejena sidrišča za spust, na naketarih sem zamenjal oz. dodal nove prusike. Tura je zares vredna spoštovanja in je za sam vzpon treba imeti kar nekaj kilometrine ,dobro kondicijo in pa tudi znanje iz plezanja in vrvne tehnike. lp
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neworx29. 07. 2020 |
Iz GM na Široko Peč v nedeljo 26.7., snega je že toliko pobralo, da zimske opreme nisva rabila. Tiste par snežišč je bilo možno obiti ob strani. Vpisni cifri 571 in 572. Huda tura v obeh pomenih
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Heavy_bull21. 06. 2022 10:52:21 |
Včeraj (20.6.) na Široko peč iz Gozd Martuljka. Prvi balvan - na levi strani potok, tako da po desni strani (nazaj grede tu nameščena pomožna vrvica). Za prvim balvanom pred vlažno skalno zaporo levo preko "rahitičnega" snežnega mostu - priporočljiv cepin. Sneg še na nekaterih manjših delih, ne povzroča težav, cepin pa vseeno lahko pride prav. Za spust v škrbino po vstopni prečki / gredini iz krnice je nameščena vrv. Bilo super vreme in odlične razmere. Fotografije dodane na Široka peč 2497 m.n.m. - Forum.
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Kostja Jerovšek31. 08. 2022 15:13:32 |
(25.8.) na Široko peč čez skok in skozi Amfiteater.Nad skokom v skrinjici zamenjal vpisni zvezek. ker je bil prevelik sem ga prežagal na pol. Snega je v Amfiteatru več kot pred tremi leti v tem času , vendar z globoko luknjo. Na zadnjem abzajlu v grabnu dodal zanko, naslednji naj zabije drugi klin... če bo imel s seboj kladivo.
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