Krma - Tosc (northern approach from Bohinjska vratca)

Access to the starting point:
From Mojstrana in Gorenjska, drive into the Krma valley, where you turn onto the forest road towards Kovinarska Koča, and from there continue to the end of the road to the Pri Lesi parking lot, where there are signs for the Triglav National Park.

Path description:
At the end of the forest road, or from the parking lot at Lesa, we start our journey, initially on a gently sloping road. The faint road continues for a while over small gravel areas, then begins to rise slightly and turns into a rocky cart track. After crossing a slightly larger torrent, the path begins to climb steeply through more dense forest. Higher up, the path leaves the forest and becomes lane of dwarf pines, mixed with scrub, and over the above slope climbs over rubble, with larger rocks interspersed. After less than an hour's walk, somewhere at a height of about 1400 m, the path lays down again and leads to a beautiful grassy plain called Vrtača. On the other side of the plain, the path begins to climb again and after about 15 minutes of further walking leads us to Malo polje, where along the path in the middle of the plain between the larger boulders we see a crossroads, where there are often cairns, but apart from the faded inscriptions and markings, there are no other markings for the Bohinjska vratca or Vodnikov dom, unfortunately, as the main marked path here onwards leads towards Triglav.
Continue along the tiny path to the left in the direction of Bohinjska vratce and Vodnik's home. The slightly sloping and poorly marked path begins to climb gradually, first through a sparse larch forest, and then leads to a wide scree slope. The path up the scree becomes steeper and steeper and winds in many switchbacks towards the saddle between Vernar and Tosec - called Bohinjska vratca. The last part of the path below the saddle is steeper and rougher, and the proximity of the vertical walls below Vernar increases the risk of falling rocks.
From Bohinjska vratace turn left (Vernar to the right, Vodnikom dom down), towards the imposing Tosc wall with its wide and stepped thresholds. After only a few dozen metres we reach the quite difficult and steep entry of about 8 m chimney (I-II), which fortunately has enough steps and handholds to be successfully negotiated. Anyone who has too much difficulty climbing here is advised not to proceed further, as there are at least two other such more difficult places on the ascent, when it is necessary to climb over a shorter rock step or rock threshold.
The easiest ascent - in the most optimal direction - is a kind of triple curve: up over the first chimney, left, over a rock ledge, right, over a rock ledge, left, over a rock step and then across to the right over three small scree tongues and finally left for the last time over a shallow and rough ridge all the way up to the top greens (see picture). A few cairns are always placed, but sometimes unfortunately they are not really in the right places, so it is always necessary to look in advance to choose the best direction rather than just follow them.
Generally speaking, the rock grade to the left is steeper and more difficult to climb, and to the right - looking up - less steep, but the terrain is more slippery and lumpy, constantly running and slipping underfoot, so the risk of falling rocks is high, especially for those climbing behind us. So we make good use of the few green cross lanes in between to look for drawbridges upwards. The passages over rock steps or thresholds in the second half or further on are no longer too difficult and, with a good choice of direction, do not exceed the difficulty of the first entry chimney, but for those less experienced in climbing skills and orientation, it is recommended to be accompanied by a guide and the occasional belaying, generally when crossing a more difficult threshold.
The descent from the top of Tosc is usually done by the normal approach and the marked path leading to it from the south side, but this path around to Vodnik's home and then back to Bohinjske vratace - if you are returning to Krma - is quite long and very hot in summer.

On the way: Bohinjska vratca (1979m)

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