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Mountain ranges / Karawanks / Begunjščica / Ljubelj - Begunjščica (via Frelihov žleb)

Ljubelj - Begunjščica (via Frelihov žleb)

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Starting point: Ljubelj (1058 m)
Lat/Lon: 46,4324°N 14,2602°E
Name of path: via Frelihov žleb
Time of walking: 2 h 30 min
Difficulty: rock climbing ascent
Altitude difference: 1002 m
Altitude difference po putu: 1002 m
Map: Karavanke - osrednji del 1:50.00
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, ice axe, crampons
Author: JusAvgustin
Views: 14.268
 4 people like this post
Number of pictures: 8
Number of comments: 0
Access to the starting point:
From the Ljubljana - Jesenice motorway, take the Ljubelj exit and follow the road to the border crossing. Just a few metres before the border crossing, the signs for Zelenica direct us to the left and after a further 10 metres the road leads to a parking lot under the Zelenica ski centre.
Path description:
From the parking lot, follow the footpath towards Zelenica, Vertatscha and Stol. The dirt track, which runs along the left-hand side of the ski slope, leads us after about 15 minutes of moderate ascent through the forest to the aforementioned slope along which we then climb. The path, which offers beautiful views of the extensive scree Begunjščica on the left and the ridge Ljubeljščica on the right, then leads us in a gentle ascent to the hut at Vrtača.
From the hut, continue straight along the marked path, which slowly turns slightly to the left and, after a short cross-climb, leads us to lane of dwarf pines. The path then climbs more steeply for a short time and then leads to cart track (the transport-rescue road), which is then followed in a moderate ascent to the mountain home at Zelenica. Walking on the ski slope is forbidden when the ski slope is open. At that time, use the winter route, which follows the transport-rescue road.
From the hut on Zelenica, head south towards the north face of Begunjščice. The best way is to follow the circular route leading from Zelenica to Roblek's house below Begunjščica. At a convenient point, about 20 minutes from the Dom on Zelenica, turn steeply upwards towards the north face of Begunjščice. The entrance to the route is in a kind of corner between a distinct ravine on the right and a rounded cleft on the left. The entrance is marked by an overhanging chimney.
If there is a lot of snow, the climbing is pleasant and easy, the gradient ranges from 40-65°. The route follows the only logical split in this part of the wall. The route exits into a gully on the NW ridge. If the snow conditions are favourable, the summit can be reached by following the NW ridge without too much difficulty. If we have enough, we leave the route and follow the system of beams and ledges down to the house on Zelenica.
In case of bad conditions (little snow, unprocessed snow and dry rock), before entering chimney, enter the route on the exposed ledge to the left, which leads us exactly under the rounded ledge, after which we climb into the main gully. The gully is interrupted by three jumps. The first one is the most difficult. After a kind of a trap-angle it is necessary to get to a wedged boulder and UNDER the boulder we climb into the continuation of the gully. Above us we have the second jump, which we overcome without much difficulty. Above this jump, the difficulties are taken away and the route continues along a nice gully to the ramp. Just before the route turns into dwarf pines we have another jump, but this one is hardly noteworthy. The Frelihov gully direction is one of the mountaineering directions, probably needless to say that climbing is easier if there is a lot of snow, but be careful, do not go in the route when there is a lot of newly fallen snow as the route is one big avalanche.
I wish you a pleasant climbing in a beautiful direction.
zemljovid puta - Begunjščica
We recommend: trips from the same starting point, similar trips, panorama, Inscription book
Pictures:
Ljubelj - Begunjščica1
Ljubelj - Begunjščica2
Ljubelj - Begunjščica3
Ljubelj - Begunjščica4
Ljubelj - Begunjščica5
Ljubelj - Begunjščica6
Ljubelj - Begunjščica7
Ljubelj - Begunjščica8
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