Ljubelj - Begunjščica (Zeleniška smer)

Access to the starting point:
From the Ljubljana - Jesenice motorway, take the Ljubelj exit and follow the road to the border crossing. Just a few metres before the border crossing, the signs for Zelenica direct us to the left and after a few 10 metres of further driving, the road leads to a parking lot under the Zelenica ski centre.

Path description:
From the parking lot, follow the footpath towards Zelenica, Vertatscha and Stol. The dirt track, which runs along the left side of the ski slope, leads us after about 15 minutes of moderate ascent through the forest to the aforementioned slope along which we then climb. The path, which offers beautiful views of the extensive scree Begunjščica on the left and the ridge Ljubeljščica on the right, then leads us in a gentle ascent to the hut at Vrtača.
From the hut, continue straight along the marked path, which slowly turns slightly to the left and, after a short cross-climb, leads us to lane of dwarf pines. The path then climbs more steeply for a short time and then leads to cart track (the transport-rescue road), which is then followed in a moderate ascent to the mountain home at Zelenica. Walking on the ski slope is forbidden when the ski slope is open. Then use the winter route, which follows the transport-rescue road.
From the Home on Zelenica, head south towards the north face of Begunjščice. The best way is to follow the circular route leading from Zelenica to Roblek's Lodge below Begunjščica. At a convenient point, about 20 minutes from Dom na Zelenici, turn steeply upwards towards the north face of Begunjščice. The route follows a gully sandwiched between two peaks of the NW ridge. The difficulty depends on the amount of snow that has fallen, so if the snow conditions are unfavourable, at least four short rock jumps await us.
The route starts on a sort of chimney/backcountry route, which cuts the route to the first snowfield in the gully. From the first anchorage (a wedge in the rock), in good conditions it is possible to go directly over the jump into the gully, but in bad conditions, climb around the jump on the right side and continue further into the gully with the traverse. Above this jump, the continuation of the gully leads to the next anchorage (rock wedge). In good conditions and with a watered jump, there are no particular problems, but if the jump is dry, this is the most difficult place in the route (IV+ 4m) and must be climbed on rock. 4m is the most difficult place in the route (IV+ 4m) and must be climbed on rock. 4m is the most difficult place in the route (IV+ 4m). After this jump the main difficulties are over and the steep gully leads us in two sections to the NW ridge of Begunjščice.
From there we have several options - either to follow the gully on the NW ridge back to the entrance and consequently to the valley, or to continue on the NW ridge to Veliki vrh of Begunjščice. From the big summit we can descend either the Central Gully or the Y Gully back to the starting point. Although the route is only 200 m long, it is not to be underestimated, as otherwise relaxed climbing can quickly be spiced up by a hard rock jump. Anchorages are provided, an intermediate belaying is recommended. Do not go after a snowfall as the route is one big avalanche! Enjoy your climbing and don't forget safety!

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