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Mountain ranges / Karawanks / Begunjska Vrtača / Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača (Lenuhova grapa)

Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača (Lenuhova grapa)

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Starting point: Ljubelj (1058 m)
Lat/Lon: 46,4324°N 14,2602°E
Name of path: Lenuhova grapa
Time of walking: 2 h 25 min
Difficulty: rock climbing ascent
Altitude difference: 933 m
Altitude difference po putu: 933 m
Map: Karavanke - osrednji del 1:50.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, ice axe, crampons
Author: JusAvgustin
Views: 13.510
 7 people like this post
Number of pictures: 13
Number of comments: 2
Access to the starting point:
From the Ljubljana - Jesenice motorway, take the Ljubelj exit and follow the road to the border crossing. Just a few metres before the border crossing, the signs for Zelenica direct us to the left and after a few 10 metres of further driving, the road leads to a parking lot under the Zelenica ski centre.
Path description:
From the parking lot, follow the footpath on the left side of the ski slope through the forest towards the house on Zelenica. The wide cart track leads to the ski slope after a ten-minute walk. Continue along the edge of the ski slope and after a short ascent a large meadow opens up on the right, after which there is another slope. Take this track and follow it to the top, where you will come across a wide cart track. Follow the Cart track, which is prone to avalanches in unfavourable conditions, to where it leads back to the ski slope.
Leave the ski slope here and head south straight up the avalanche. The steepness of the slope is quite significant and you can see that you are gaining altitude very quickly. Somewhere about halfway, cross to the left towards the NW face of the Begunjska vrtača to the entrance to the route. The entrance is clearly visible, but for the sake of simplicity let me just write that there are two entrances. Which one to choose depends mainly on the snow conditions. If there is little snow, the entry jump can be quite jammed (UIAA 4-/M), but if there is a lot of snow, there is no entry jump at all. After a varied start, the route opens up, initially steeply up to a kind of confluence of two gullies - we continue on the left, as the right one is interrupted by an overhang. In a pleasant climb we approach a snowfield which divides the route into two parts. From the snowfield we head for the only possible passage - the continuation of the gully, which soon takes us below the exit to the upper snowfield, where the route ends. There is only a long traverse down the snowfield to a place where a short gully opens up, leading to a ridge and thus to the summit. Descend along the same route or along the more preferable descending gully. The route can be extended along the ridge to Veliki vrh Begunjščica and descend either the Central Gully or the Y Gully.
Although the easiest in Begunjska vrtača, the Lenuhova direction is a serious tour of moderate difficulty. It can get stuck right from the start, if the jump is not climbed we can try to enter to the right of it, but even there we can't escape a few metres on the rock. From the anchorage we then descend to continue the route. Difficulty: IV-, 300 m direction not equipped. It offers many possibilities for a belaying fellow climber. The gradient ranges from 40° upwards. The steepest part exceeds 55°. For convenience I attach a plot of the route and a plot of the descent.
zemljovid puta - Begunjska Vrtača
We recommend: trips from the same starting point, similar trips, panorama, Inscription book
Pictures:
Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača1
Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača2
Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača3
Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača4
Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača5
Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača6
Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača7
Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača8
Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača9
Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača10
Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača11
Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača12
Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača13
Discussion about the trail Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača (Lenuhova grapa)
JusAvgustin13. 01. 2014
Naj bo prvo mnenje moje, ki sem smer včeraj tudi plezal in vanjo popeljal tudi prijatelja. Boljših razmer si lahko samo želimo, saj je vstopni skok v celoti zalit, nadaljevanje grape je trdo in je res škripavec. Prečnica v sredini je edino bolj kočljivo mesto a so res dobre "štapne". Od zgornjega snežišča pa se razmere spremenijo a še vseeno zelo dobre. Snega je toliko, da je možno izstopiti po direktni varijanti in po razu na obširno snežiče pod vrhom.

LP
Zgembo26. 06. 2014
Žig pa je nekdo odžagal, eni pa so, očitno dobesedno vzamejo zbiranje žigov.
     
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