Ljubelj - Spodnji Plot (učna zavarovana plezalna pot)
Starting point: Ljubelj (1058 m)
Lat/Lon: | 46,4324°N 14,2602°E |
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Name of path: učna zavarovana plezalna pot
Time of walking: 2 h 10 min
Difficulty: extremely difficult marked way
Ferata: D
Altitude difference: 624 m
Altitude difference po putu: 630 m
Map: Karavanke - osrednji del 1:50.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, self belay set
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, self belay set, ice axe, crampons
Views: 7.190
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Access to the starting point:
Drive to Border crossing Ljubelj, where you turn left before the tunnel towards Zelenica. Drive over a small bridge, then park in a large parking lot.
Path description:
At the beginning of the parking lot, the mountain signs for Hochstuhl, Vertatscha and Dom na Zelenici direct us to the wide cart track, which begins to climb along the torrent. When the cart track turns left a little higher up, we continue straight on along the mountain path, which continues through the forest and soon returns to cart track. Cart track turns right a little higher up and leads us out of the forest onto the ski slope of the former Zelenica ski resort. There is a short, steeper climb up the ski slope, and then the trail flattens out and leads us along the foothills of the scree below Begunjščica.
The marked path soon branches off to the right along a service road, and we continue along the "road" to the nearby Vrtača Hut.
At the hut, the road turns right and we continue straight ahead towards the mountain trail to Zelenica. For a short time we continue under the former single-seater Zelenica II, and then the path begins to climb steeply up the slope, which is partly overgrown by dwarf pines. After a few switchbacks, we return to the service road, which we continue along, overlooking the Šentanski avalanche.
The path ahead takes you along the slopes of the Lower Plot (the summit of which was covered by a sport climbing route a few years ago), then off the road turn right onto a footpath that cuts around a long bend. Once back on the road, we are at the top station of the former Zelenica II monorail, with only a few steps of descent to the Zelenica Home.
From the Home on Zelenica, continue right to the north-east and follow the signs leading to the start of the climbing routes. At first you walk on grassy slopes where the path is not very visible and then you reach steeper slopes on the south side of Spodnji Plot. The steep slopes are then traversed, which quickly leads us to the starting point of the climbing routes.
At the starting point, equip yourself with a self-protection kit and a helmet. Climbing gloves are also recommended.
The climbing route initially ascends transversely along a steel climbing route (difficulty up to B/C) and then turns to the left and becomes significantly more difficult. The climb over a vertical pillar (difficulty D) leads to a crossroads.
A very difficult sport ferrata (difficulty E) branches off to the right, and we continue left on an easier route (a learning protected climbing route). From the crossroads, we first cross a steep slope to the left, which is quite difficult as there are not many steps on the route (difficulty C). The route then turns right up and climbs along a glacier (difficulty B). A slightly more difficult steep climb follows (difficulty B/C), and then the difficulty drops a shade before it reaches the top of the climb. Continue climbing along the steel (difficulty B) and soon reach the ridge where the protected route ends. In a few places there is some sand and rocks on the path, so you have to be careful not to break through them.
Continue right on the ridge and it's just a few steps of easy climbing to the top.
Follow the easy path down to the north-west side towards Dom na Zelenica.
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Discussion about the trail Ljubelj - Spodnji Plot (učna zavarovana plezalna pot)
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Tomco18. 05. 2024 21:22:15 |
Prvič na tej ferati. Sicer res ni nič preveč kaj takega, ampak je treba priznati, da začetni D del pa vendarle ni od muh. V bistvu v mojem primeru edino zaradi tega, ker se na začetku nisem mogel zmeniti sam s sabo, če bom ubral smer levo ali desno od jeklenice. Neka logična pot mi ni bila prav očitna. Ko sem pa zaštartal čez "pravi" prehod, nisem imel več nekih problemov. Jeklenica na ferati je kar debela, tako da je vedno na voljo obilo oprijema za se povleči gor - na tistih mestih, ko je pač treba. Drugi omembe vreden del je paralelno prečenje čez gladko steno, ki bi znal biti problematičen za tiste, ki bi se morebiti ferate lotili brez ustrezne obutve. Tukaj je pogoj je ustrezen podplat za varen stop na trenje. Desne, težje ferate, niti nisem imel v načrtih. Le-te se bom lotil, ko bo za to pravi čas - z dodatno opremo in veliko dodatnih izkušenj.
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