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Mountain ranges / High Tauern / Großglockner / Neues Lucknerhaus - Großglockner

Neues Lucknerhaus - Großglockner

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Starting point: Neues Lucknerhaus (1918 m)
Lat/Lon: 47,0229°N 12,6897°E
Time of walking: 9 h
Difficulty: extremely difficult marked way
Altitude difference: 1880 m
Altitude difference po putu: 1880 m
Map: Skupina Glockneru 1:50 000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, ice axe, crampons, lamp
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, ice axe, crampons, lamp
Author: JTrogar
Views: 38.736
 3 people like this post
Number of pictures: 34
Number of comments: 14
Access to the starting point:
Pass through the Karavanke Tunnel, past Spittal and on to Lienz. At the end of Lienz, turn right for Kals and Matrei. After about 20 km in Huben, just before Matrei, turn right again for Kals. Kals is then 13 km away. From Kals to the parking lot at the Lucknerhaus (1920m) take the panoramic road Kalser Grossglocknerstrasse (toll) and park there.
Path description:
Park in one of the two large gravel parking spaces at the Neues Lucknerhaus hut at 1918 m by the Kodnitzbach torrential stream. The trail starts on the right side of the torrent for a short distance, then crosses it on a footbridge and continues on the other side of the road in a gentle ascent until you reach the Lucknerhutte hut (2241 m). The trail-track then climbs steeply towards hut Studl-Hütte (2802 m).
At the hut there is a crossroads. To the right is the trail to the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte (3454 m), and we go straight up to the Teischnitz-Kees glacier and follow it along the rocky Luisegrat ridge until we reach the Studlgrat (3200 m). On the glacier we have to watch out for numerous crevasses. Prepare yourself properly before ascending the ridge, as the ascent of the Studlgrat is a UIAA III-IV, mostly II, climb. Therefore, when entering the ridge, it is necessary to be aware that such a climb requires a lot of experience and knowledge about belaying, climbing in high mountains, making anchors, belaying of the other in the string, orientation, conditioning, problems with the altitude, planning the route,. . . If this is not enough, such a climb can only be undertaken with a mountain guide or an experienced mountaineer, given sufficient fitness. The beginning of the ridge is still quite easy to climb. During the climb, at the so-called Frustucklatz-trailhead (3550 m), we also come to a warning board which says that if we have spent more than 3 hours up to here, we should turn back. The hardest part is just above us. The ridge is also almost never completely free of snow. The best time to climb is from May to September. The rock itself is very good for climbing. Above the breakfast room there are a few large smooth slabs and short verticals to help us with the fixed safety gear (pegs with and without rings, ropes with knots, ropes with ropes, ropes with ropes). Finding the passages in some places is also quite difficult in terms of orientation. Once the most difficult and exposed part of Kanzel (the pulpit) is behind us, there are no more problems to reach the top.
From the summit, you can descend by a much easier route via the KleineGrossglockner, past the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte hut (3454 m) and over the Koednitz-Kees glacier, straight on down into the valley on one of the many paths you can see below the glacier. Alternatively, you can go right past the Studl-Hütte hut you passed on the ascent. For this climb, most descriptions give a time of 8-10h for the ascent and 4-6h for the descent. Due to the large difference in altitude it is wise to do the tour in two days. The first day to hut Studl-Hütte (2802 m), the second day to the summit and descent into the valley. The hut is open from May to September, depending on snow conditions.
zemljovid puta - Großglockner
On the way: Lucknerhütte (2241m), Studl-Hütte (2802m)
We recommend: trips from the same starting point, similar trips
Pictures:
Neues Lucknerhaus - Großglockner1
Neues Lucknerhaus - Großglockner2
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Discussion about the trail Neues Lucknerhaus - Großglockner
urarrr4. 07. 2010
Pozdravljeni izlet po_grebenu_studlgrat ni izlet, temveč zelo zelo težka smer. Premalo je povdarjeno da je to alpinistična smer III-IV..ko se planinci tega zavejo se mi zdi da je že malo pozno. V sami steni smo bili 8 ur...nekateri so imeli težave in zadevo so se vlekle. Od vozila do vrha in v kočo na 3.5km smo rabili 14 ur....kar zahteva kar nekaj kondicije..
penzionist11. 11. 2010
Sicer ni panike, si pa mal falil hrib
šerpa11. 11. 2010
Lepa ferata, sam z Velikim Klekom pa res nima nobene vezezmeden
Marky17. 05. 2012
Dne 12.-13.5.2012 smo z AO Kozjak na ledeniku pod Grossglocknerjem opravljali ledeniški tečaj. Naslednji dan smo se pa podali na vrh čez ledenik Kodnitzkees.
Izhodišče: Lückenhaus 1918m
Prenočišče: Stüdlhutte 2802m
Pristop: čez ledenik, Mali Klek, škrbino Glockner-scharte na vrh.. sestop po enaki poti..
Sestavek o poti in slike si lahko ogledate na M-foto.si
Gric5. 08. 2013
V torek 30.07.2013 po službi smo se iz Ljubljane odpravili Helena, Aleš, Dario in Gregor. Parkiranje pri Lucknerhaus in hitra pot do Stüdlhütte, kjer je sledila odlična večerja (priporočam!) Čez ledenik Teischnitzkees v navezi štirih, nato po grebenu v navezi dveh. Pot po grebenu je v celoti kopna. Sledil je spust čez Kleineglockner (priporočam dereze na noge takoj ko se spustite na sedlo), mimo koče Erzherzog-Johann-hütte in naprej čez ledenik Ködnitzkees v dolino.

Slike z opisi poti na Picasi

lp, Gregor
rusmi27. 06. 2014
Je kdo bil v zadnjem času na V.Kleku?
skrajnik15. 08. 2016
Za tole turo(goro) pa loh rečem sam: WWTTFF?!?!?!? Oziroma KVA?!?!?!((s)gužva)
redbull16. 08. 2016
Kaj si hotel s tem povedat, mislim da ni nobenemu jasno?
skrajnik16. 08. 2016
Loh se sam čudiš lezenju en čez druzga (pa tudi pod, prek, nad in kombinacije). Pa prepleteni štriki v vseh smereh. Pa več ur čakanja. Pa popolnih začetnikov, ki te fehtajo, če jih potegneš na vrh. In podobne burleske. Noro velik nasmeh
dprapr16. 08. 2016
Torej nič novega...
ljubitelj gora16. 08. 2016
Se spomnem lani od zadnje koče na 3500m do vrha in nazaj 5 ur, v navezi. Številne naveze, padec ene naveze pred očmi in nesreča na vrhu, ko je enmu zlomilo nogo. GRS profesionalno izvedel reševanje, drugače pa super vreme. Vsekakor zelo odsvetujem na Veliki Klek za vikende. !!! Kako je med tednom ne vem.
redbull16. 08. 2016
S kolegom sva pred letom kar nekaj navez obšla. Za hvalit se ni, a drugače tam ne gre. Tja hodijo tudi takšni katerim bi se zdela pot na Okrešelj tezka
BT8816. 08. 2016
Jaz sem bil enkrat zadnji vikend v septembru in se je kar dalo tako v koci kot na poti.Drugace pa sredi avgusta med tednom po grebenu smo spali na ledeniku in sli med prvimi in glejga zlomka celo ena naveza nas je prehitelaeek je vlekel vodnik eno puncko na striku kar za sabo.DRugace pa guzva kot na Triglav in prabi hribovci tam lih uzivajo ne.Pa srecno
     
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