Neues Lucknerhaus - Großglockner

Access to the starting point:
Pass through the Karavanke Tunnel, past Spittal and on to Lienz. At the end of Lienz, turn right for Kals and Matrei. After about 20 km in Huben, just before Matrei, turn right again for Kals. Kals is then 13 km away. From Kals to the parking lot at the Lucknerhaus (1920m) take the panoramic road Kalser Grossglocknerstrasse (toll) and park there.

Path description:
Park in one of the two large gravel parking spaces at the Neues Lucknerhaus hut at 1918 m by the Kodnitzbach torrential stream. The trail starts on the right side of the torrent for a short distance, then crosses it on a footbridge and continues on the other side of the road in a gentle ascent until you reach the Lucknerhutte hut (2241 m). The trail-track then climbs steeply towards hut Studl-Hütte (2802 m).
At the hut there is a crossroads. To the right is the trail to the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte (3454 m), and we go straight up to the Teischnitz-Kees glacier and follow it along the rocky Luisegrat ridge until we reach the Studlgrat (3200 m). On the glacier we have to watch out for numerous crevasses. Prepare yourself properly before ascending the ridge, as the ascent of the Studlgrat is a UIAA III-IV, mostly II, climb. Therefore, when entering the ridge, it is necessary to be aware that such a climb requires a lot of experience and knowledge about belaying, climbing in high mountains, making anchors, belaying of the other in the string, orientation, conditioning, problems with the altitude, planning the route,. . . If this is not enough, such a climb can only be undertaken with a mountain guide or an experienced mountaineer, given sufficient fitness. The beginning of the ridge is still quite easy to climb. During the climb, at the so-called Frustucklatz-trailhead (3550 m), we also come to a warning board which says that if we have spent more than 3 hours up to here, we should turn back. The hardest part is just above us. The ridge is also almost never completely free of snow. The best time to climb is from May to September. The rock itself is very good for climbing. Above the breakfast room there are a few large smooth slabs and short verticals to help us with the fixed safety gear (pegs with and without rings, ropes with knots, ropes with ropes, ropes with ropes). Finding the passages in some places is also quite difficult in terms of orientation. Once the most difficult and exposed part of Kanzel (the pulpit) is behind us, there are no more problems to reach the top.
From the summit, you can descend by a much easier route via the KleineGrossglockner, past the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte hut (3454 m) and over the Koednitz-Kees glacier, straight on down into the valley on one of the many paths you can see below the glacier. Alternatively, you can go right past the Studl-Hütte hut you passed on the ascent. For this climb, most descriptions give a time of 8-10h for the ascent and 4-6h for the descent. Due to the large difference in altitude it is wise to do the tour in two days. The first day to hut Studl-Hütte (2802 m), the second day to the summit and descent into the valley. The hut is open from May to September, depending on snow conditions.

On the way: Lucknerhütte (2241m), Studl-Hütte (2802m)

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