Passo Falzarego - Punta Fanes Sud (Via Ferrata Tomaselli)

Access to the starting point:
First, drive to Cortina d'Ampezzo (you can get here via Border crossing Rateče or Predel to Trbiž / Tarvisio and then take the motorway towards Udine to the Tolmezzo exit. From Tolmezzo, follow the road towards Ampezzo and the Passo della Mauria mountain pass. The road then descends and leads to a crossroads where you turn left (possibly right) towards Cortina d'Ampezzo. At all subsequent junctions, follow the signs for Cortina d'Ampezzo.
Or from the Primorska side, take the motorway towards Trieste. Continue on the Italian motorway towards Padua, but only as far as the motorway junction where you continue towards Veneto and Belluno. Near Belluno, the motorway ends and we continue towards Cortina d'Ampezzo at the next junctions and then follow the signs for the Passo di Falzarego Alpine pass. We then follow this ascending road to the large parking lot at the pass.
Cortina d'Ampezzo can also be reached from the route of Austria (direction Karavanke Tunnel, Spittal, Lienz, Sillian, Dobbiacho / Toblach, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Passo Falzarego).

Path description:
Just a few dozen metres away from the parking lot at the lower pendulum station on Lagazuoi Piccolo, you will see the signs for the Lagazuoi Gallery. The route initially takes you along a less-traveled dirt road (a road closed to traffic for the purposes of the ski resort), which, after a short climb, leads you to a point where the signs for the gallery point slightly to the left. The ascent continues along a wide mountain path which climbs parallel to the road we have just left. The moderately steep path then leads from the dwarf pines strip to the scree fields, which offer beautiful views, especially to the south. The well-maintained path leads us, after less than an hour's walk, to a crossroads where we continue to the right along the normal mountain path (left path through the gallery).

The path then crosses the slopes below the steep walls of Lagazuoi Piccolo (danger of falling rocks) and a little further on, via a torrential spring, passes onto the scree between the above-mentioned peak and the neighbouring peak called Cima Falzarego. Here the path turns slightly to the left and ascends a moderately steep slope to the viewpoint of Forcella Travenanzes, where there is a crossroads.

Continue straight ahead towards the 'bivacco della Chiesa', following the path which crosses the scree on the right (east) side of the Lagazuoi Grande ridge. After a few minutes of crossing, the path leads us under the walls of the ridge (risk of falling rocks) and then up a small pass, where we can see a number of underground tunnels. Continue in the direction of the Chiesa bivouac along the path, which occasionally climbs a little more. The increasingly scenic traverse leads us higher up to the saddle of Forcella Grande, from which we descend a few steps to the Chiesa bivouac.

From the bivouac, follow the signs "Via Ferrata Tomaselli" and after a few dozen metres enter the south-west face of the Punta Fanes Sud (2980 m). In the initial part, climb steeply upwards along the ropeway. Above us you will see old wooden ladders dating back to the First World War. The path passes slightly to the left of the ladders and starts to cross a vertical wall to the left. You need to have some strength in your arms as there are not many steps to cross. After a short crossing, the path climbs again along the steel almost vertically up to a narrow ledge on which you continue to the left. This is followed by a slightly less steep but unprotected climb right upwards, which leads to another ledge on which we again continue left. The ledge becomes narrower and we are helped by a rope ladder. From the ledge we then continue almost vertically upwards again. On the next narrow ledge, continue right. This time considerable caution is needed as the narrow ledge which crosses the precipitous slopes to the south is not protected. When the view to the south opens up, the path turns left along the steel cable steeply upwards. The path becomes steeper and climbs vertically several times, and even slightly overhanging for a short distance. In the last part, the path briefly leads us to a narrow precipitous ridge from which we have a wonderful view to the south. Continue left and there is a steep climb up a smooth rocky slope, which leads us to a less demanding summit section of the mountain. On the ridge, continue to the left and there is only one more

The Via Ferrata Tomaselli on Punta Fanes Sud is extremely difficult and only suitable for the most skilled mountaineers with enough strength in their arms and the obligatory self-guidance. This is one of the most challenging protected routes in the Dolomites.

Descend the protected path to the north-east. Although this route is slightly easier than the ascent, it is still an extremely demanding route and should not be underestimated. From the summit, first descend steeply downhill along a steel track. The trail then turns slowly south and continues to descend steeply. There is a vertical descent with the help of a few pegs, and then the path soon leads to the Forcella dei Quaire notch below the Travenanzes summit. From the notch, continue southwards and descend down the ravine. Take care not to break any rocks as you descend through the gully. After descending through the gully, join route 20b just below the Forcella Granda notch.

If you continue right over the stubble, you have about 10 minutes' walk to the Chiesa bivouac. To the left, you can descend via the Forcella Travenanzes stub to the Falzarego Pass.

On the way: Forcella Travenanzes (2507m), Bivouac della Chiesa (2652m)

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