Planina Zajzera - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž (Via Amalia)

Access to the starting point:
From Kranjska Gora, take the Rateče border crossing to Trbiž / Tarvisio. Continue along the old road to Udine. After a few kilometres from Trbiz / Tarvisio, the road to Ovčje vas / Valbruna turns off to the left. Turn left here and follow the road as far as mountain pasture Zajzero, where you park in a large parking lot.

Path description:
From the parking lot, turn onto the road, which is closed to traffic behind the signs Bivacco Mazzeni, Bivacco Stuparich. The road descends gently at first and then leads through the forest. Soon we come out of the forest to a wide stream bed with a lot of sand. Here the path is slightly less visible and the sandy terrain is crossed slightly to the right. The path then leads to a crossroads, where you turn right to follow the signs for Bivacco Stuparich. With the help of some cairns, cross the stream to the right again and the path leads into the forest. The path through the forest soon starts to climb quite steeply, then turns left and soon we have beautiful views of the Montage walls. The path continues to lead us along the stream bed, past some bushes and dwarf pines, and leads us to the crossroads of the path. We continue to the left, following the Stuparich signs, and the path to the right leads to the Grego hut.

The path here turns left and starts to climb in switchbacks through the sparse forest on the left side of the valley. This path leads to the crossroads again. Bear left towards the Stuparich bivouac, and the path to the right leads towards the Dunjska valley. The path then begins to cross the slope to the east and soon leads to the Stuparich bivouac.

From the bivouac, we return a few metres back to where the inscription on the large rock points us right up (south-west). The path to the left leads down (south-east) towards the Mazzeni bivouac.

For a short time we then climb up a slightly overgrown path through the bushes, and then the path leads us to the bed of a torrent. Turn left here and climb up the right side of the torrent bed. There are few signs here, but the numerous cairns signs are helpful. The path then turns right and crosses the slopes below Jôf di Montasio westwards until it enters the climbing part of the route.

The climbing route initially turns left into the wall and starts to climb in steep switchbacks along a steel cable, with a few wedges to help. In a few places the route climbs almost vertically. The path then turns to the right and climbs very steeply upwards along the rock face. There is a vertical climb with the help of a number of crampons, which leads to a narrow notch. A gentle descent through the notch is followed by a challenging vertical climb upwards to the left. In addition to the rope, there are also a few wedges to help us climb.
The trail becomes slightly less demanding and starts to climb up a fairly wide gully along the steel cable. The path then turns to the left and briefly leads us to a gentle grassy slope, then begins to climb up the rocky slope again. The path then climbs quite steeply along the steel cable a few more times, with a few scrambles to help us. The path then passes under the North Tower (Torre Nord), where it turns to the right. Here you cross steep slopes to the west, and in early summer there are often snowfields. There is a climb up steep grassy slopes and then a climb along a gently crumbling slope by a cable car. This path then leads to a narrow ridge from where we also have beautiful views to the west. There is a short climb along the ridge, and then the path turns to the west side and begins to descend a steep grassy slope. The path then crosses the slopes to the south for a short distance before turning left and climbing up the rocky slope at a slightly steeper angle. The Suringar bivouac is then just a short scramble along a ledge to the right.

From the bivouac, continue southwards and briefly cross the western slopes, then reach a crossroads where the markings direct you upwards to the left. The path marked with red dots starts to climb quite steeply and leads us to Findenegg's Ozebnik. The ascent through the frost is relatively steep and is also exposed to falling rocks. The route is not protected and most of the route is first level climbing, with a short section of second level climbing.

The path becomes a bit crumbly as you leave the frost, so you have to be careful not to break any rocks. Further on, the path leads to an exposed ridge, which then soon leads to a scenic peak.

You can follow the route of ascent. However, as this is a long and extremely difficult route, it is advisable to organise transport from mountain pasture Pecol, and thus descend via the normal southern route via Pipan's Ladder.

On the way: Bivacco Stuparich (1587m), Bivacco Suringar (2430m)

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