Ravenska Kočna - Skuta (on ferrata and over Dolgi hrbet)
Starting point: Ravenska Kočna (1000 m)
Lat/Lon: | 46,385°N 14,5364°E |
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Name of path: on ferrata and over Dolgi hrbet
Time of walking: 6 h 15 min
Difficulty: extremely difficult marked way
Altitude difference: 1532 m
Altitude difference po putu: 1700 m
Map: Kamniške in Savinjske Alpe 1:50.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, self belay set
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, self belay set, ice axe, crampons
Views: 19.882
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Access to the starting point:
From the motorway Ljubljana - Jesenice take the exit Kranj - East and follow the road towards Jezersko. At Zgornje Jezersko, just past the petrol station, you will see a road that branches off the main road to the right (towards Planšarsko jezero). The road then takes you past the lake and climbs steeply behind it for a short distance. Higher up, the road flattens out and loses its asphalt surface at the beginning of a large meadow. The dirt road is then followed to a marked large parking lot.
Path description:
From the parking lot, continue along the macadam road following the signs "Češka koča, Ledine" and after about 15 minutes' walk you will reach the cargo cableway. At the cargo cableway where there is a crossroads, follow the signs Kranjska koča na Ledinah (Through the hatch/Slovenska pot) and Češka koča (Hatch retreat). At first you walk through the forest for a short time and then the path leads you to a terrain partly covered with dwarf pines. The path here starts to climb slightly steeper and then leads to a crossroads.
Turn right on the scree slope where the inscription on the rock 'Ferata Češka koča' directs you. After a short climb on the scree, we reach the entrance to the climbing route. At the entrance to the climbing route, an easier route branches off to the left, bypassing the initial most difficult part of the climbing route. This route is marked with a sign "retreat".
The climbing route climbs very steeply at the beginning along the belay (difficulty C/D) and, as there are few steps, it takes some strength in the arms. There is a short, less difficult traverse on a slope covered with grass and dwarf pines (A/B). The route then becomes more difficult again and climbs up a steep wall (C/D). In the wall, the route turns left uphill and over a short but still quite difficult overhang (E) leads to slightly less difficult terrain. Here you climb along a rope along a slope partly covered with grass and dwarf pines (B/C). The route then leads to easier terrain where the first part of the climbing route ends.
Climb up the easy slope for a while through dwarf pines, then come back to the ropes where the second part of the protected route starts. Here, the path also joins from the left, giving way to the initial most difficult part. We then climb along the steel cable for a while on a not too difficult slope (A/B), then the path turns to the left and there is a short vertical climb (D). We then climb steeply along the steel cable for a while (C and C/D). This route then leads to a registration box where the route briefly becomes a shade less difficult (B/C). The route then climbs steeply again (C/D) and then the steepness begins to ease. The crags then end and soon the "Hatch retreat" trail is joined. Continue right here and it is only a few minutes' walk to the hut, which you can already see ahead. From the hut, continue right along the path in the direction of Koča, Grintovec and Vratca (Kranjska koča via Žrelo on the left). After a short climb, you will reach flat ground marked H (intended for helicopter landing). The path continues along the initially folded scree, which is partly covered with dwarf pines. In the lower part of the scree, the path to Vratca branches off to the right, and we continue straight on in the direction of Kočna and Grintovec. After about half an hour's walk from the hut, we reach the next crossroads. Continue along the left path in the direction of Grintovec (Kočna on the right) on a path that quickly leads to the start of the wall. Here you put on your helmet and start the climbing part of the route. The climbing is not difficult at first, but the ascent is dangerous because of the rubble on the path (danger of slipping). The wall we climb then becomes steeper and fixed safety gear are more and more frequent. Climbing on natural passages through grooves, gullies and ledges follows. Throughout the climb, there are beautiful views of Jezersko and the surrounding peaks. After nearly two hours of "climbing", we leave the wall at Mlinarsko sedlo, where we can see southwards. Here we are at a crossroads, where we turn left in the direction of Dolgego hrbta and Skute (Grintovec on the right). From here on we have just over 30 minutes of protected climbing to the top of Dolgega hrbta. At first the route leads us over the southern slopes of Dolgego hrbta, but with the help of numerous fixed safety gear the route quickly leads us to the ridge again. We continue along the ridge, and in places the path leads over 1000m precipices. This path, which is a slip hazard in the wet, soon leads to the top of Long Back.
From the top of Dolgega hrbta, continue along the ridge towards Skute. Using the fixed safety gear, the path leads us to a place where we join the path from the bivouac under Grintovec. Here the path is laid and goes from precipitous to less steep slopes. Continue towards Skuta along the path, which descends slightly with the help of a few wedges on the left hand side to bypass the top of Štruce. The path leads us on to an undistinguished saddle between Štruca and Skuta, from which we climb to the summit in 15 minutes on the easy summit slope of Skuta. Ravenska Kočna - Češka koča 2:00, Češka koča - Mlinarsko sedlo 2:45, Mlinarsko sedlo - Skuta 1:30.
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Discussion about the trail Ravenska Kočna - Skuta (on ferrata and over Dolgi hrbet)