Rifugio Dibona - Tofana di Rozes (Via Ferrata Lipella)
Starting point: Rifugio Dibona (2083 m)
| Lat/Lon: | 46,5326°N 12,0703°E |
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Name of path: Via Ferrata Lipella
Time of walking: 5 h
Difficulty: extremely difficult marked way
Ferata: C/D
Altitude difference: 1142 m
Altitude difference po putu: 1250 m
Map: Tabacco 03 1:25.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, self belay set, lamp
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, self belay set, ice axe, crampons, lamp
Views: 31.099
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Access to the starting point:
Access from Gorenjska: Via Border crossing Rateče or Predel to Trbiž / Tarvisio and then along the motorway towards Udine to the Tolmezzo exit. From Tolmezzo, follow the road towards Ampezzo and the Passo della Mauria mountain pass. The road then descends and leads to a crossroads where you turn left (possibly right) towards Cortina d'Ampezzo. At all subsequent junctions, follow the signs for Cortina d'Ampezzo.
In Cortina d'Ampezzo, follow the signs for the Passo di Falzarego Alpine pass. Follow this ascending road to where a road forks off to the right in the direction of the rifugio Dibona hut (the fork is at about 1700m). The initially asphalted road leads you higher up to a crossroads where you continue on the lower road on the left (Duca d'Aosta hut on the right) and follow it to the parking lot behind the Dibona hut.
From the coastal side: take the motorway towards Venice/Venezia. At Portogruaro, leave the motorway towards Venice and turn right on the motorway towards Pordenone. At the next motorway junction near Conegliano, turn right towards Belluno. The motorway ends near Belluno and we continue towards Cortina d'Ampezzo at the next junctions. Continue as described above.
Path description:
From the parking lot, continue along the dirt road past the gate. Follow this road to a marked junction, where you turn left onto a footpath marked "Via Ferrata Lipella", and to the right is route 403 towards hut Rifugio Giussani. After a few metres you are back at the crossroads. This time turn right, also following the signs for "Via Ferrata Lipella". The path then ascends and crosses the slopes below the mighty south face of Tofana to the west. Initially, the ascent passes through dwarf pines, which is soon replaced by a scree slope. As we approach the wall, we are back at the crossroads. Bear left and continue crossing the scree to the west. To the right is the path to hut Rifugio Giussani and straight ahead is the protected path "Grotta della Tofana".
After crossing the scree slope, you will be at a crossroads again, where you will turn right to follow the signs for "Via Ferrata Lipella". The trail turns slightly northwards here and soon enters the climbing part of the trail. Using crampons and a ladder, climb almost vertically upwards. There is another climb up a ladder, which leads to a military tunnel (Galleria del Castelletto). The path then takes you through military tunnels for some time, through which you climb quite steeply on a few occasions. The military tunnel is about 500 metres long and climbs 120 metres. From the tunnel, we then descend by means of a ropeway to a slightly less steep slope below the summit of Il Castelletto. After crossing the narrow ledges to the north, the path becomes very difficult. A couple of times, the climb is almost vertical, helped only by a steel cable. Later, on a short overhanging section, we are also helped by a scramble. The route then continues northwards across the western face. Mostly we walk on narrow ledges, but occasionally we climb steeply. There are a few small descents along the way. This route then continues to a crossroads just before the Tre Dita summit (three fingers). It should also be noted that when crossing the narrow ledges, water often flows from the vertical walls above us. At a time when the snow is still melting higher up, these are quite small waterfalls that can get us quite wet.
At the crossroads, a path branches off to the left towards the top of Tre Dita and onwards towards hut Rifugio Giussani, and we turn right to where the sign "Cima" directs us. From the crossroads, there is a slightly longer traverse along the ledge, and then the path turns left steeply uphill. A couple of times we climb almost vertically along the steel then the steepness eases a shade. The path continues slightly to the right and continues to climb along the steel cable. In between there are some more difficult almost vertical climbs. The path continues to run slightly to the right and then leads us to the scree where the protected path ends.
After a scree climb, you will soon reach a ridge where you will join an easier trail that runs along the east side of the mountain.
At the crossroads, continue right along the ridge and climb for some time. At the last part of the ridge, the path goes off to the right to the west side. A little caution is needed here in a few places as there is a lot of rubble on the path. This path then soon leads us to a very scenic peak.
We descend on an easier path which we joined at the end of the protected path.
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Discussion about the trail Rifugio Dibona - Tofana di Rozes (Via Ferrata Lipella)
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| JORDAN12. 08. 2011 |
V sredo 10.08.2011 sva bila na tej feratti.Vreme fantastično lepo,tudi temperatura primerna - 5°.V spodnjem delu feratte je bila na enem od prehodov črnega raza zaledenela jeklenica in tudi polica v dolžini 10m.Iskreno povedano bi tam potreboval tudi dereze,ker so bile težave zelo velike.Kamor koli si stopil je bilo ledeno in tam ti tudi v primeru zdrsa in obstanka na samovarovalnem kompletu zelo težko kdo pomaga,ker je tudi pomočnik na ledu.Verjetno bi tam prišel prav kakšen konec 10m vrvi,ravno tako pa bi dodatna vrv lahko prišla prav tudi na drugem skoku zgornjega dela feratte koder je bila ravno tako jeklenica ledena in tudi skala.Na teh mestih je prihajalo do zastojev,na feratti pa je bilo zelo veliko ljudi.Zgornji del feratte je za stopnjo težji od spodnjega paziti pa moramo tudi na padajoče kamenje in kose ledu.
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| okorn16. 08. 2011 |
Najprej JORDAN hvala za komentar, vedno pride prav. V nedeljo 14.8.2011 pa sva to ferrato obdelala tudi z mojo punco, moram reč da so dolomiti res zakon, imela sva res lepo vreme in ker sva štartala zgodaj zjutraj nisva skoraj nič hodila po soncu razen vršnega grebena. Drugače je pa ferrata obnovljena in primerno varovana, kjer voda teče po policah je res malo zoprno ampak ni bilo nič zmrznjeno, svetilka je obvezna  priporočam pa tudi zgodnji štart drugače boste na vrh korakali z kakšnimi čehi midva sva jim za las ušla in sva sama hodila skoraj celo pot super. Vsi ki obožujete lepe razglede, imate dovol kondicije (tok hudo pa spet ni) si to ferrato privoščite. Za zanimivost naj povem, da ko sva bila na vrhu nas je bilo gor 9 od tega 8 slovencev. Od Kranja do Cortino d'Ampezzo je 5ur vožne ampak kar hitro mine ko si ogleduješ Italjanske vasice in mesta. Opozoril bi pa samo da je Cortino d'Ampezzo drago mesto prav tako nočitve v kočah npr. nočitev v sobi za 8 oseb v koči Dibona 45€ na osebo + zajterk in večerja, meni se to zdi kar drago v primerjavi z Slovenijo s tem, da se do te koče pripelješ z avtom. Drugače pa ni bilo slabih izkušenj. Na koncu bi se pa še zahvalil avtorju za tako podroben in lep opis.
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| Kili0230. 07. 2013 |
Iscem ugodno varianto nocitev v Cortini ali okolici, pa me zanimajo vase izkusnje poleg kampov, ki jih seveda ze poznam, njihove cene so primerljive z nasimi ali celo nizje kot npr. v Posocju.
Hvala
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| DARINKA51. 08. 2013 |
Mene pa zanima kakšna je cesta do rifugio Dibona, vem da je višinska omejitev, ampak naš avtodom bi šel skozi, samo me zanima širina ceste, zaradi srečevanja z drugimi avtomobili.
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| DARINKA51. 08. 2013 |
Kili02, če maš avtodom, na Passo Falzarego brez problemov prenočiš, sploh zdaj v avgustu je tam natrpano avtodomarjev.
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| Kili021. 08. 2013 |
Z avtodomom ne bi bil problem, zanimajo me izkušnje tistih ki imajo avto ali motor, torej nočitve na način chaletjev v Franciji, tukaj namreč nisem našel nič podobnega.
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| Andreja11. 08. 2013 |
Cesta do Dibone je ozka, vendar so vmes izogibališča. Več avtomobilov srečaš, če greš gor popoldne, ko se vrečejo s tur.
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| Andreja12. 08. 2013 |
V Diboni je letos polpenzion 48 eur. To je edina varianta, samo spanje ne gre. Edino mogoče v avtu ali kombiju, malo stran od koče ...
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| felix18. 01. 2018 |
Imam podobno vprašanje kot predhodnik za Civetto: S katero našo zavarovano potjo se lahko primerja ferata na Tofano? Vem, da dolžina naših poti niso primerljive s to ferato, zanima me zahtevnost.
Hvala in lep pozdrav
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| mirank18. 01. 2018 |
O zahtevnosti samo toliko, da ni previsnih delov, drugače je bolje, da o tem ne pišem, ker pravijo da zavajam. Midva sva tam hodila konec avgusta 2010? in je bilo na par mestih res ledeno po zajlah in tudi po tleh (ledenih sveč morje in en ribnik), povsod kjer teče ali kaplja voda.Moje mnenje je, da če ni strahu pred višino-ob prisotnosti normalne moči v rokah in ustrezni kondiciji v manj kot 8h urah si že nazaj v Diboni. Pa je prav vse glih ali so najtežji detajli na Kopiščarjevi zahtevnejši ali ne; sicer pa primerjati z našimi potmi pa ne bi hotel; je vse drugače, dolžina, izpostavljenost, višina, razgledi....Poizkusi recimo Coglians ali Colineto, ki so krajše, bližje in malo težje, potem ti bo takoj jasno  , obrneš pa tudi vedno lahko. Pa še to, če se ti zadeva zgoraj zdi prezahtevna lahko komot izstopiš tam kjer piše TRE DITA. To je enostaven izstop na greben (neizrazit vrh z ruševinami iz vojne) in v pol ure si v koči Giusani.
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| don kihott23. 01. 2018 |
Te Dolomitske feratarske klasike so predvsem dolge in potrebna je splošna psihofizična pripravljenost in sreča z vremenom...Naše ZZP(ferate) pa mislim,da nobena ne doseže niti poštene ocene C po Avstriski feratarski lestvici...
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| rok.si19. 08. 2019 |
Pot sva prehodila 15. avgusta in dobila takšne vtise:
Na prvem delu do točke Tre Dita je dosti hoje po policah, ki spominjajo na Kanjavčeve, je pa tudi nekaj vertikalnih odsekov, vendar je kar razčlenjena skala in nama je bil všeč.
Zgornji del pa je, kot napisano, za stopnjo težji. Po polurni hoji po dolgi polici se usmeri strmo navzgor in tako ostane do konca ferrate. Ker je prejšnjo noč deževalo je bila skala, že tako manj razčlenjena kot spodaj, mokra, tako da se je bilo treba veliko vleči po jeklenicah. Na nekaj mestih je bilo za prijateljico, ki je bolj majhne rasti zelo problematično napredovanje, saj so klini, ki nosijo jeklenico, preredko posejani. Tu sva si pomagala s trakom-zanko (gurtno) kot dodatnim stopom, privezanim na klin. Vsem, ki so manjše postave in se na pot odpravljajo po dežju, priporočam, da imajo kaj podobnega s sabo.
Vsa varovala so v brezhibnem stanju.
Drugače pa mogočna pot na mogočno goro!
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| pohodnik3336. 09. 2023 21:02:56 |
Je dolga ni kaj za rečt ter zahtevna.
V suhem vremenu ni blo problema ter okol 21.8.2023 je samo na 2 mestih kapljalo na jeklenico ter po skali. Tam je bilo bolj spolzko, vendar to sta dva kratka odseka.
Je pa Tofana di Rozes čudovita gora. Od Tofan mi je najlepša.
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