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Mountain ranges / Julian Alps / Velika Martuljška Ponca / Ruski križ - Velika Martuljška Ponca

Ruski križ - Velika Martuljška Ponca

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Starting point: Ruski križ (1000 m)
Lat/Lon: 46,4444°N 13,7746°E
Time of walking: 7 h
Difficulty: very difficult pathless terrain
Altitude difference: 1602 m
Altitude difference po putu: 1800 m
Map: TNP 1:50.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, ice axe, crampons
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, ice axe, crampons
Views: 36.420
 5 people like this post
Number of pictures: 0
Number of comments: 11
Access to the starting point:
First drive to Kranjska Gora, then continue driving towards the Vrh Leh pass just before the 3rd serpentine of the Ruska or vršiška road, you will see the Russian Cross on the right and a small parking lot on the left, where you park. As the parking lot is relatively small and quickly full, you can also park a little higher up in the larger parking lot just above the 4th serpentine (in this case we have to descend a little to our starting point at the Russian Cross).
The starting point can also be reached from the coastal side via the Vršič Pass.
Path description:
Just before the 3rd serpentine of the Ruska cesta, we will notice the mountain signs for Koča v Krnici along the road, which direct us slightly to the left to the wide cart track, which immediately starts to descend moderately. After a few minutes of descending through the forest, the path is laid and leads us to the dry Pišnica riverbed. Just after crossing the stream, the path turns slightly to the left and leads us out of the forest onto the vast grassy slopes of the mountain pasture in Klin, where we see a secluded hut on the right and the small memorial park of Mali Tamar on the left. The path ahead is completely laid out and then joins the forest road coming from the former Hotel Erika or the bridge over the Velika Pišnica. Continue right here and follow the relatively steep forest road all the way to Koča v Krnici, which is reached after about 20 minutes of further walking.
From the hut, head left towards Špik. After a few minutes you reach a torrential ravine along which you then climb. After a good hour's walk from the hut, the marked trail to Špik in Cirque crosses the ravine and then climbs up the left-hand side of the ravine. However, as the marked path leading to Špik moves away from the ravine, you will see a less well-trodden path climbing moderately upwards along the ravine at the foot of the scree. The path ascending the ravine is full of rubble and, due to frequent storms, full of unstable rocks. The path, which is slightly less visible in parts, leads us further along a slightly narrower ravine which splits into two parts higher up. Continue along and along the right-hand gully, which leads us slightly higher to the extensive scree below the northern wall of Škrlatice. Initially still quite visible, the path crosses these scree slopes slightly to the left and crosses them mostly at their foot (cross-climb northwards). Further on, the bivouac in Velika Dnina is soon visible on a small rise below an indistinct peak. If it is foggy and if we do not know the route, it will be difficult to find. We can climb further to the bivouac, which is a little off the trail, but an ideal place for a short or longer rest. If we decide to bypass the bivouac, we continue along a barely visible path that climbs up the increasingly narrow scree. The scree then ends and the climb continues up and along a distinct gully, steeper and steeper. The gorge is relatively difficult to cross due to storms, which often change its appearance. The climbing, which is on a crumbly terrain, exceeds grade 2 in places. In the upper part of the torrential ravine, we turn slightly to the right and, with some minor technical and orientation difficulties, we climb up a rather steep slope to the base of the summit slope of Velika Martuljska Ponca. In the last part, the steepness eases and the increasingly scenic "path" leads us to the vast summit of Velika Martuljška Ponce.
Due to technical difficulties approaching difficulty level 3, I recommend being accompanied by a mountain guide. Orientation is very difficult and almost impossible in the fog without the aid of a compass or GPS.
zemljovid puta - Velika Martuljška Ponca
On the way: Koča v Krnici mountain hut (1113m), Bivak v Veliki Dnini (2180m)
We can extend the trip to the following destinations: Veliki Oltar
We recommend: trips from the same starting point, similar trips
Pictures:
Discussion about the trail Ruski križ - Velika Martuljška Ponca
Guest19. 08. 2007
nasmehnasmehnasmehsuper super
mre25. 12. 2007
Pripomba na opise potrebne opreme za zimski čas. Za Veliko Martuljško Ponco je v zimskem času zelo priporočljiv štrik za sestop/spust po zadnjem kaminu pred vrhom.
Drugače tura za čisto desetko.nasmeh
432. 07. 2013
morda nekaj napotkov: melišče v veliki dnini je gor grede skrajno naporno, tista grapa za pristop pod vršno zgradbo je nezgrešljiva in prav prhka, kar koli primeš se odlomi ... tudi kamin oziroma bolje rečeno žleb je nezgrešljiv in ni tako krušljiv in težak ... naj pa mi nekdo pojasni kje je na ponci 3. stopnja, ker je pač ni ... tudi ta "kamin" je lahek, klinov in štantov je veliko, še najbolj neugodna je ta grapa za dol grede, ker je resnično krušljiva in ni štantov za abzajl ... vzemite pa s seboj štrik (dovolj bo tudi 30m) ker je vsekakor bolje abzajlat kot pa dol grede iskat redke trdne grife ...
JusAvgustin3. 07. 2013
ne drži
Branee4. 07. 2013
ahahahahh
DarjaZaplotnik5. 07. 2013
@Jus ima kar prav mežikanje

lp d nasmeh
alyas28. 07. 2013
Krnica - Velika Dnina - Velika Martuljška Ponca (razmere 28.7.2013)

Že v zatrepu Krnice pod Veliko Dnino naletite na večjo snežno plazovino, ki zaradi položnosti ne povzroča težav, odcep desno - potko navzgor čez ruševje in macesne je treba poiskati še iz snežišča, pomaga pa tudi kakšen možic, ki smo jih danes postavili še kar nekaj. Malo pod Bivakom I in naprej do konca Velike Dnine so snežišča še kar zvezna, a smo jih danes vse prečili brez pomoči derez.
Za dostop na prvo raven pod VMP smo izbrali gledano navzgor zadnjo možnost, "rdeči žleb" (iz Stritar.opisa: 111 izletov), ki je sicer krušljiv, a normalno prehoden z lažjim plezanjem. Za vršnji dostop na VMP pa najkrajši, skrajno desni žleb, ki zahteva nekaj več raztežajev in plezanja, za navzdol - čez ta predel pa je zelo priporočljivo varovanje - kakih 60 m vrvi bo za najtežji del in za abzajlanje več kot dovolj. A ker je obstoječih klinov bolj malo (videli 2 uporabna), ni imeti odveč še kak prusik, tudi mi smo uporabili (in tam pustili) enega od prejšnjih obiskovalcev.
Več podrobmosti na slikah.
ljubitelj gora18. 10. 2014
ljubitelj gora26. 05. 2015
Lani sem bil redkobeseden, melišče v jeseni je bilo res naporno. Zadnji del, ko je bil kopen je šlo po vseh 4, ampak kratek del. Zato je bolje it, ko bo še sneg. Se ti pa tak vzpon za dolgo vtisne v spomin, brez opreme je povratek silno težak. Sam sem imel 30m vrvu, v grapi so bila 3 sidrišča za spust, (prva grapa nima večjih težav za plezanje razen zdelo se mi je krušljivo) skala v drugem žlebu (vsaj meni) se ni zdela krušljiva in oprimki so dobri, vršni del je II+ (eni pišejo o II drugi o III.st.)je pa nad grapo še nekaj krušljivega terena za prehodit do vrha. Povratek do grape je v megli lahko izjemno težko najti, saj se grape z vrha ne vidi. Tako zgleda (mal nižje balvan): http://shrani.si/f/1H/Y/lgBLZex/106590279404372459696293.jpg Bo treba še kdaj ponovit.
PostojnskiGams25. 08. 2020
V nedeljo 23.8.2020 sem se s prijateljem podal na Veliko Martuljško Ponco, zjutraj sem imel kar slab občutek, saj je bilo napovedano grdo vreme. Na pot smo šli po najbolj dostopni poti. Od koče v Krnici proti Veliki Dnini je razbita struga, tam je zelo počasno napredovanje, kasneje pa se skozi borovce še bolj povzpne in se višinske metre hitro nabira. V Veliki dnini po 400 višinskih metrih melišča (ponavadi se tu drži sneg) zavijemo nad snežiščem levo. Prvi tehnični del je zelo razbit, držite se leve, samo malo pred vrhom zavijte desno. Tam je možic. Od tu naprej je dobro vidna potka. Po potki boste prispeli do drugega tehničnega dela, v tem delu je veliko zabitih klinov za kasnejši spust z vrvjo *Vrv ni potrebna* (Vsak vé zase) midva sva si pomagala vendar bi lahko tudi brez. Ko prispete na vrh tega dela pa zavijte denso na prečko, dobro vidno tudi sidrišče. Potem pa samo proti vrhu in še enkrat prečite na levo vendar ni več nič težavnega. Za spust pa vrv ni potrebna, je pa dobro da je pri roki vsaj 20m, saj so klini zelo pogosto zabiti. Srečno !!
janezs7320. 08. 2023 18:34:12
Včeraj na tej lepotici, iz katere celo uro z užitkom strmim na vse sosednje in daljne velikane Julijcev. Toliko zgodb je že doživetih v njihovih strminah, da kar kipijo pred očmi...

Oskrbnica je sicer povedala, da sta se dva nekaj dni prej obrnila (ni vedla povedat, kje), a dostop je normalno prehoden - vsi pa vemo, kaj "normalno" za Martuljek pomeni: Kamnolom, kjer se podere skoraj karkoli, kar primeš oz. potegneš v napačni smeri velik nasmeh (ja, tudi izjeme so, celo tukaj).

V sp.grapi je srednji del (za prečenjem Lipnih prodov) precej naložen (se mi zdi na novo). Prehod preko hudournika je čisto ok, na več mestih se da lagodno do ovinka v desno (proti macesnom). Naprej ni problemov.

Snega v V.Dnini ni več veliko, grape in kamini zgoraj pa po okusu vsakega, ki tja zahajamo.
     
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