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Mountain ranges / Julian Alps / Veliki Oltar / Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar (on NW ridge)

Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar (on NW ridge)

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Starting point: Ruski križ (1000 m)
Lat/Lon: 46,4444°N 13,7746°E
Name of path: on NW ridge
Time of walking: 6 h
Difficulty: rock climbing ascent
Altitude difference: 1621 m
Altitude difference po putu: 1820 m
Map: TNP 1:50.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, ice axe, crampons, lamp
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, ice axe, crampons, lamp
Author: JusAvgustin
Views: 19.946
 4 people like this post
Number of pictures: 11
Number of comments: 18
Access to the starting point:
First drive to Kranjska Gora, then continue driving towards the Vrh Leh pass just before the 3rd serpentine of the Ruska or vršiška road, you will see the Russian Cross on the right and a small parking lot on the left, where you park. As the parking lot is relatively small and quickly full, you can also park a little higher up in the larger parking lot just above the 4th serpentine (in this case we have to descend a little to our starting point at the Russian Cross).
The starting point can also be reached from the coastal side via the Vršič Pass.
Path description:
Just before the 3rd serpentine of the Ruska cesta, we will notice the mountain signs for Koča v Krnici along the road, which direct us slightly to the left to the wide cart track, which immediately starts to descend moderately. After a few minutes of descending through the forest, the path is laid and leads us to the dry Pišnica riverbed. Just after crossing the stream, the path turns slightly to the left and leads us out of the forest onto the vast grassy slopes of the mountain pasture in Klin, where we see a secluded hut on the right and the small memorial park of Mali Tamar on the left. The path ahead is completely laid out and then joins the forest road coming from the former Hotel Erika or the bridge over the Velika Pišnica. Continue right here and follow the relatively steep forest road all the way to Koča v Krnici, which is reached after about 20 minutes of further walking.
From the hut, head left towards Špik. After a few minutes you reach a torrential ravine along which you then climb. After a good hour's walk from Koča v Krnici, the marked trail to Špik crosses the ravine and then climbs up the left side of the ravine. However, as the marked path leading to Špik moves away from the ravine, you will notice a less well-trodden path that climbs moderately upwards along the ravine at the foot of the scree. The path ascending the ravine is full of rubble and, due to frequent storms, full of unstable rocks. The path, which is slightly less visible in parts, leads us further along a slightly narrower ravine which splits into two parts higher up. Continue along and along the right-hand gully, which leads us slightly higher to the extensive scree below the northern wall of Škrlatice. Initially still quite visible, the path crosses these scree slopes slightly to the left and crosses them mostly at their foot (cross-climb to the north). Further on, the bivouac in Velika Dnina is soon visible on a small rise below an indistinct peak. If it is foggy and if we do not know the route, it will be difficult to find. It is about a three-hour walk to get here. You can climb further to the bivouac, which is a little off the trail, but an ideal place for a short or longer rest. If we decide to bypass the bivouac, we continue along a barely visible path that climbs up the increasingly narrow scree slope. The strenuous scree then ends and we continue our ascent along a scabby gully, which soon leads us to the first anchorage below the overhang. A key section (good II) follows a few metres up over a small overhang to a second belay below the extremely broken crux ridge between Velika Martuljška Ponca and the Great Altar. After the broken gully it is necessary to climb about 10 m to the third belay in the notch of Snake's Tongue. The hard part is behind us, because the most beautiful part of the hike is next. About 200 m of poetry in stone (I-II. ), as I like to call it, namely the NW ridge Veliki Oltar, is one great pleasure. Such a compact rock is only found in Mali Oltar. After a good 200 m of climbing over slabs and cleavage we approach the last wall. You can climb over the wall straight to the top, or take an easier detour on the left to chimney, which leads you to the broken summit slope of Veliki Oltar. It is only a short walk to the top. Descend along the same path, or descend to Jezerec. It is probably not superfluous to point out that the ascent of Veliki Oltar is a level II climbing ascent, which requires knowledge of the safe use of complete mountaineering equipment and mountaineering skills. The route is well equipped. Safe ascent and enjoy the NW ridge of Veliki Oltar!
zemljovid puta - Veliki Oltar
On the way: Koča v Krnici mountain hut (1113m), Bivak v Veliki Dnini (2180m), Velika Martuljška Ponca (2602m), Mala Martuljška Ponca (2501m)
We can extend the trip to the following destinations: Visoki Rokav, Škrlatica
We recommend: trips from the same starting point, similar trips, panorama
Pictures:
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar1
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar2
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar3
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar4
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar5
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar6
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar7
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar8
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar9
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar10
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar11
Discussion about the trail Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar (on NW ridge)
jedriličar19. 08. 2013
Juš, če biš dao eno slikco iz daleč sa ucrtanim smerom, bi veliko pomagalo orijentacijski. Če sam dobro razmel, ste smer opremili z klini ? Samo štante ali i medvarovanja v detalju (previsu)?
strelec195419. 08. 2013
Dober opis,lepo dokumentirano nasmeh
BT8820. 08. 2013
Juš sam ta slikca dnine pa ni od letos mrk pogled
JusAvgustin20. 08. 2013
Kaj ima to veze z opisom? zmeden
DarjaZaplotnik20. 08. 2013
S spoštovanjem Juš, da najdeš motivacijo za pisanje, ampak Tine Mihelič je v Slovenskih stenah ta vzpon strnil v 14 stavkov. In kdor se iz Miheličevega opisa ne znajde, nima tam gor kaj iskat.

lp d nasmeh


ps: Iskrene čestitke za slovenske Flammes de Pierre.
BT8820. 08. 2013
Nisem nič hudega mislil Juš.Nekdo bi se pa le lahko orientiral malce tudi po sliki recimo.velik nasmehvelik nasmeh
JusAvgustin20. 08. 2013
Še vedno ne razumem, kaj ima veze, če je slika od lani, predlani, ali letos. VD se pomoje bistveno ne spreminja, sneg je pa tudi samo po dnu krnice in ne po stenah. Zatrep krnice, po žlebu gor do sidrišča, od tam na greben in naprej po SZ grebenu na vrh. Hvala Darja, bilo je (tišina in debeli pljunek...)mežikanje
BT8820. 08. 2013
Juš ne se pust provocirat sam pod opombo sem hotu prbitjezik
JusAvgustin20. 08. 2013
Sedaj samo čakam, da kdo gre po mojem opisu in pove svoje mnenje... Ni panike, sej vem da mal zaj..... nasmeh Drugi opis čaka na odobritev. jezik Opisov ni nikoli preveč, sploh opisov Martuljka...
dprapr20. 08. 2013
Bom jutri "poškilo" tja prek, če si v redu opisal!nasmeh
Jonny_22. 08. 2013
Vsa čast za vpisano "pot"! Tura vam lahko spremeni način življenja. Meni ga je. Ane, Juš? mežikanje
bosketi4. 06. 2014
Ta pa mene letos čaka!!Juš daj mi prosim povej a so dereze pa cepin obvezna?
JusAvgustin11. 08. 2014
Me veseli, da se poslužujete mojih opisov.
andrejp7. 11. 2015
Po včerajšnji VMP sva z Janezom danes splezala še na Oltar. Sledila sva opisu in bilo je brez problema. Za pristop do plezalnega dela sva v zgornjem delu Dnine uporabila dereze v plezalnem delu pa ne. Spustila sva se v k bivaku in v Vrata. V zgornjem delu spusta z vrha sva za dva kratka prehoda po snegu uporabila cepin, sicer pa je smer iz smeri bivaka suha in brez snega. Užitek po melišču...ITAKvelik nasmeh
A in J
Shkaro4. 10. 2017
Pozdrav, evo vidim da dugo nitko nije pisao o Velikom Oltaru pa javljam da smo ga prijatelj i ja poplezali u subotu, 30.09.2017. Snijeg je prekio većinu sidrišta i klinova tako da je dobro imati gurtne ili klinove sa sobom. U svakom slučaju, jako lijepa i zahtjevna tura mežikanje

Hvala svima na opisima - pomoglo na mje u orijentaciji do vrha...sve slike se mogu pogledati ovdje -> https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10211290073022217.1073741883.1071632319&type=1&l=da60a6440b
palček plezalček4. 10. 2017
Čestitke. Zabavni komentarji k slikam na FB-ju nasmeh
dprapr5. 10. 2017
Dobra tura in fotografije. Užitek jih je bilo pogledati.
     
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