Zajzera - Monte Nabois grande (variante per la crestaest)
Starting point: Zajzera (897 m)
Name of path: variante per la crestaest
Time of walking: 4 h 30 min
Difficulty: very difficult marked way
Altitude difference: 1416 m
Altitude difference po putu: 1430 m
Map: Julijske Alpe - zahodni del 1:50.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, self belay set
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, self belay set, ice axe, crampons
Views: 13.258
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Access to the starting point:
Cross the border crossing at Predel or Rateče to Trbiž / Tarvisio. Continue along the old road to Udine. After a few kilometres from Trbiž / Tarvisio, the road to Ovčje vas / Valbruna turns off to the left. At Sheep's Village / Valbruna turn left and follow the road up the Zajzere valley. After a few kilometres of driving, you will come to a crossroads at a small bridge over the road (at the second bridge). Here, turn left towards the signs for St. Visari / Monte Lussari and then, after a few metres of driving, turn right into a large parking lot.
Path description:
At the end of the parking lot, take the cart track signpost, which joins the road after a few dozen metres. Continue left over the bridge and follow the road to a crossroads where you turn right after the signs "616 Rifugio Pellarini". Walk along the river for a while and soon join the mountain road. Continue left on the mountain road, which then climbs for a long distance. Keep following the signs for route 616 and the Rifugio Pellarini hut.
About halfway up the road, a very difficult trail branches off to the right to the Little Nabois (Piccolo Nabois). We continue along the road until the end, where the bottom station of the goods cableway is. Continue slightly right on cart track, which quickly becomes a track. The path then turns left and starts to climb up a slightly steeper slope below the cable car. The ascent is mainly through the forest to the east, with occasional views of the surrounding peaks. This route leads us to a marked crossroads where we continue to the right, following the Rif signs. Pellarini (20 min), and to the left is the 617 route to Svete Višarje (4 hours).
The path soon leads us out of the forest and onto the scree slopes, from where a very nice view opens up towards Viš. Here the path turns to the right and there is a final climb to the Pellarini hut.
From the hut we continue along route 616, which after a few dozen metres leads us to a crossroads. Continue to the right, following the signs for Sella Nabois (Nabois Stump), and to the left the path leads to Sella Carnizza (Frog's Stump). The path then takes you across a wide torrent bed to the right side of the valley, where you will soon reach a new crossroads. Take the ridge path to the right (variante per la crestaest).
After a short climb, the path leads to a signpost by the side of the path, which warns that the path is very difficult and is intended only for experienced mountaineers. The trail below is very badly beaten and unprotected.
From the warning sign, the path climbs steeply through dwarf pines and leads to a grassy slope. Here, continue firmly to the right and a narrow and slightly exposed path leads to a ridge covered with dwarf pines. Continue along the ridge through dwarf pines. Once out of dwarf pines, the path follows a steep ridge to the left and, after a short, slightly exposed traverse, leads to a gully. Some caution is needed here, as there is a lot of rubble on the path, which is poorly trodden.
Then it's a climb up a fairly steep ravine. Out of the gully you reach a grassy slope where the track becomes very faint. Continue firmly to the right up the grassy slope to regain the main ridge of the mountain. The initial part of the ascent along the ridge requires some caution as the ridge is very steep.
The ridge becomes noticeably less steep and there are wonderful views on all sides. Later, as the ridge becomes more difficult, you will see a well-trodden path on the left leading to the Great Nabojs (via normale). At this point, leave the ridge and cross the steep grasses to join the normal path. If the grass is wet, take extra care as the slope is quite steep.
Then follow the path up the steep slope. The last climb to the top is very difficult and the path is protected by a steel cable.
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Discussion about the trail Zajzera - Monte Nabois grande (variante per la crestaest)
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lynx11. 07. 2011 |
Grapa nekje na sredini poti je letos precej zdelana in zadelana z drobirjem. Previdno!
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gorskarozica13. 08. 2012 |
Včeraj sem obiskala Veliki Nabojs po grebenski poti. Ta je lepa, malo bolj divja, potrebno je popaziti na rdeče pike, katere služijo našim markacijam. Pač tura je lepa, spust pa priporočam po običajni poti.
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jax28. 06. 2015 |
Pot je popolnoma na novo urejena (požagano ruševje) in markirana (markacij je marsikje skoraj preveč), ob tem pa je bil njen potek malo spremenjen - sedaj ni več prečenja po strmih travah do normalne poti, pač pa pot sledi grebenu čisto do konca in se šele pri zajlah združi z normalko. Na tem mestu je na voljo še posladek - vzpon na zadnji grebenski stolpič, ki pa ni obvezen. Sicer pa zelo lepa pot, ki jo kazi samo skrajno nevaren vzpon skozi podrto grapo v spodnjem delu, kjer se da sprožiti tudi kak kamen v velikosti mikrovalovne pečice. Ko pa enkrat prideš na uravnavo nad grapo in nato na sam greben, stvar postane zelo lepa in prijetna. Pa vendarle - zaradi spodnjega dela poti ne bi enoznačno priporočil. Gotovo ponuja marsikaj, ampak je pa tudi med bolj objektivno nevarnimi potmi, ki sem jih prehodil.
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ajo6219. 08. 2016 |
Pozdravljeni vsi ljubitelji gora! V sredo 17.8.16 smo v skupini 14 mladih in manj mladih navdusencev opravili vzpon po vhodnem grebenu. Kljub negotovim vremenskim napovedim je vreme bilo enkratno! Pot je odlicna v vsakem pogledu,izredno razgledna, zracna, ni pretirano tezka in niti nevarna, ceprav zahteva kar nekaj kondicije. Pot, ki nima kaj zavidati marsikateremu vzponu na odmevnejsi in bolj znan vrh. Zato je zadoscenje se toliko vecje v tem nedotaknjenem koticku zahodnih Julijcev. Pa se trop 15ih gamsov nas je pozdravil na zgornjem travniku, mi pa smo smo se na vrhu oddolzili s se kar ubrano Signore delle cime... Toplo priporocam vsem ljubiteljem to pot!
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masker20. 08. 2016 |
Bravo ajo62, naj ti zaupam, da tebi in ostali planinski pisani druščini nekoliko zavidam. Sicer sem na Nabojsu bil že večkrat, vendar te grebenske poti je nisem še preizkusil. Verjamem, da jo bom v bližnji bodočnosti. Z gorami je kot z ženskami. Ko jih osvajaš, moraš imeti veliko dozo potrpljenja. Fajn se imej in še dosti planinskih užitkov ti želim.....
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IgorZlodej20. 08. 2016 |
Grebenska ni nič posebnega, veliko lepša Via Nord, ali pa po zahodni grapi na vrh.
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ajo6222. 08. 2016 |
Ja, morda je severni pristop zanimivejsji,bolj divji, se lepse je verjetno po Gamsji polici. Mislim pa, da ima grebenska pot dve prednosti: prvic to, da jo lahko priporocis tudi vecji in manj izkuseni skupini,drugic pa, da je nepremerljivo bolj razgledna, z grebena lahko obcudujemo tudi severni pristop, obratno pa malo tezje. Sestop pa priporocam po normalki. Planinski pozdrav!
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IgorZlodej22. 08. 2016 |
Ja pozimi ponavadi kombiniram po normalki
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ajo6222. 08. 2016 |
Joj,saj si izreden,Zlodej, kapo dol, ni kaj.
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DarjaZaplotnik22. 08. 2016 |
@ajo62, se strinjam glede naštetih prednosti. Je pa grebenska tudi na novo urejena kar se tiče varoval in označb. lp d
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VanSims1. 07. 2017 |
Zelo lepa pot, ki me je prijetno presenetila. Priporočam vsem, ki imajo ustrezne izkušnje. Pot ima sedaj drugačno ime in seveda tudi oznako na smerokazu, kake 10 minut po Pellariniju, ne več tako kot piše zgoraj, temveč "Sentiero Alpinistico Gasparini Florit" Toliko, da ne bi še kdo zataval že skoraj do odcepa za GOLA NE. Zakaj 'Alpinistico' mi sicer ni jasno. Kar vsako težjo pot tako označiti je nesmiselno. Potem pa bo nekdo, ki bo to pot preplezal hotel iti na pravo alpinistično pot, je pa lahko... Pot od tehnično zahtevnega obsega: najprej nekaj nezavarovanega krušljivega plezanja po razsuti grapici,nato pa seveda tisto slavno grapo, ki je sedaj tako dobro zavarovana, da pravzaprav niti ni najtežji del. Varovanje je morda priporočljivo za neizkušene, vrtoglavi pa na tej poti tako ali tako nimajo kaj delati... Kamenje se kruši ja,...pazljivo, če je kdo za vami. Bolj težji (morda sicer resda bolj s psihološkega stališča) se je meni potem zdel tisti del od skrinjice naprej (tam pozor na prvo piko v levo po kakem metru plezanja na začetku),kjer morda kak del doseže že I+ in ki je nezavarovan. Drugače težave na poti ne presežejo I. No potem pa je še nekaj plezačine pri koncu in pridemo do stika z normalko. Tisti 'neobvezen stolp', ki ga omenja @jax ima težavnost nekje do I+. Sestop z njega proti zajlam je nekoliko siten.
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serznoz14. 07. 2018 |
Danes gor. Lahko potrdim, da je pot dobro označena in primerno varovana, a kljub temu posamezna mesta terjajo povečano previdnost. Nad grapo se je potrebno malo potruditi, da se pike najdejo, a so na pravih mestih. Nekaj izpostavljenih mest je relativno kratkih. Za vrtoglave pa res ni, saj je z vršnega grebena do tal okrog 1200 metrov zraka. Vstop v grapo je okrog 20 metrov nad iztekom, jeklenice pa ta del poti bistveno olajšajo. Glede na srečevanja s pristopniki ob povratku sem imel občutek, da bolj malo spremljajo vremensko prognozo. Napoved je tokrat bila točna: ob enih sem bil na parkirišču v Zajzeri, čez četrt ure je pričelo grmeti in deževati.
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