Zajzera - Viš/Jof Fuart (Gola Nordest)

Access to the starting point:
Cross the border crossing at Predel or Rateče to Trbiž / Tarvisio. Continue along the old road to Udine. After a few kilometres from Trbiž / Tarvisio, the road to Ovčje vas / Valbruna turns off to the left. At Sheep's Village / Valbruna turn left and follow the road up the Zajzere valley. After a few kilometres of driving, you will come to a crossroads at a small bridge over the road (at the second bridge). Here, turn left towards the signs for St. Visari / Monte Lussari and then, after a few metres of driving, turn right into a large parking lot.

Path description:
At the end of the parking lot, take the cart track signpost, which joins the road after a few dozen metres. Continue left over the bridge and follow the road to a crossroads where you turn right after the signs "616 Rifugio Pellarini". Walk along the river for a while and soon join the mountain road. Continue left on the mountain road, which then climbs for a long distance. Keep following the signs for route 616 and the Rifugio Pellarini hut.

About halfway up the road, a very difficult trail branches off to the right to the Little Nabois (Piccolo Nabois). We continue along the road until the end, where the bottom station of the goods cableway is. Continue slightly right on cart track, which quickly becomes a track. The path then turns left and starts to climb up a slightly steeper slope below the cable car. The ascent is mainly through the forest to the east, with occasional views of the surrounding peaks. This route leads us to a marked crossroads where we continue to the right, following the Rif signs. Pellarini (20 min), and to the left is the 617 route to Svete Višarje (4 hours).

The path soon leads us out of the forest and onto the scree slopes, from where a very nice view opens up towards Viš. Here the path turns to the right and there is a final climb to the Pellarini hut.
From the hut we continue along route 616, which after a few dozen metres leads us to a crossroads. Continue to the right, following the signs for Sella Nabois (Nabojsa Stump), and to the left the path leads to Sella Carnizza (Frog's Stump). The path then leads over a wide torrent bed to the right side of the valley, where you will soon reach a new crossroads. Continue straight on, following the Grande Nabois via normale signs, and the ridge path to the right leads to the Great Nabois.

Continue climbing up the right side of the valley, past the increasingly scarce dwarf pines and larch trees. The path then leads us to another crossroads where the inscription on the rock "NE Gola" directs us to the left, and to the right the path leads on towards the Nabojs notch.

Red dots then lead us across the scree towards the north-eastern trunk of Viš, which is visible from a distance. The lower part of the ridge is divided into two parts. We head to the right and climb up the scree along the snowfield. The snow usually stays here all year round and therefore suitable winter equipment is also needed. Helmets and self-protection are also compulsory on the route ahead. Cross the snowfield towards a clearly visible ledge in the face of Maly Viš (the name of the rock crevasse that divides the ridge into two). The path along the slightly exposed ledge then leads to the east side of Maly Viš, turns right and leads to the entrance to the climbing part of the route. Here you climb up a very steep chute with the help of a rope. In the upper part, climb out of the chute on the left side and continue climbing steeply along the rope for some time. The climbing in this section is very difficult, but bear in mind that the spacing between the rungs to which the rappel is attached is very large, which means that, even if you use self-belay, the fall is quite dangerous. Further on, a slightly less demanding route turns to the right and then follows the ridge to the entrance to the deber. The climb through the deber then passes over a number of rocks and boulders. In some of the more difficult parts, we are helped by a rope ladder. The most difficult part is the climb over the high chimney, which is also slightly overhanging in the upper part. The climb over chimney is well protected by a rope, but there are also some wedges to help. The path then soon turns left and then climbs up the left side of the ravine. Considerable caution is needed on this part of the trail, as it is only belayed in a few places. In the upper part, the path turns to the right and, with the help of a few logs, leads us along a narrow ledge to a grassy slope called Bože poliže (God's ledge).

For a short time we cross a grassy slope, then the path turns to the left and climbs very steeply up an unprotected gully. After climbing over a steep gully, which has many good holds that make climbing easier, you reach the slightly less steep slopes on the east side of Viš.

The route then turns slightly to the right and climbs up a slope that is slightly less steep, but quite dangerous for slipping due to the unpaved path and rubble. As we approach the south-east ridge along which the normal route to Viš leads, the path turns slightly to the right and, with the help of a few small rocks, climbs up towards a small notch from which a view opens up to the north-west. At the notch, turn left and cross a narrow ledge to a crossroads where you join the normal route to Viš.

Here, continue right and there are just a few minutes of less demanding climbing to a very scenic summit.

For the descent, it is best to organise a shuttle from the Nevejski Prevala and descend past the Corsi hut into the valley.

If you have to return to the same starting point, all the routes are much more difficult and longer. In this case, the shortest but also the most demanding is to descend by the ascent route.

The other option is to take the Anita Goitan route to Trbiška notch. From Trbiška stubble then do not descend into the ravine, which is closed and extremely dangerous (marked "NO"), but continue on the marked path and follow the signs "R. Pellarini".

You can also descend to the starting point via the Stump of the Front Spur and the Mazzeni bivouac.

On the way: Rifugio Pellarini (1499m)

We recommend: similar trips, panorama, Inscription book