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Mountain ranges / Goriško, Notranjsko and Snežniško hribovje / Gradiška Tura / Gradišče - Gradiška Tura (Otmar route)

Gradišče - Gradiška Tura (Otmar route)

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Starting point: Gradišče (250 m)
Latitude/Longitude: 45,8323°N 13,971°E
Route name: Otmar route
Walking time: 1 h 40 min
Difficulty: very difficult marked way
Via ferrata: C
Elevation gain: 543 m
Elevation difference along the route: 543 m
Map: Nanos 1:50.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, self belay set
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, self belay set
Views: 65.280
 5 people like this post
Number of photos: 72
Number of comments: 20
Access to starting point:
From Razdrto we drive on the highway towards Nova Gorica or vice versa and head for the Vipava exit. We follow the road ahead towards Vipava and Gradišče. In the village Gradišče we notice the first mountain signposts, which we follow to a larger parking lot by Camp Tura above the village Gradišče.
Route description:
From the parking lot, we go past information boards in the direction of Gradiška Tura and Abram. Initially a relatively wide path leads through the forest and soon brings us to a junction on a smaller clearing. Here, the path branches off to the right towards St. Nikolaj, and we continue left towards Gradiška Tura.
From the junction, the path quickly brings us to scree and then turns to the right. We walk on a marked path and continue to follow the signs for Gradiška Tura. Along the path, we will also notice signs which mark climbing routes. The path then starts to ascend somewhat more steeply and occasionally beautiful views open up on the Vipava Valley. The path, which here runs by bushes and through low forest, brings us to the next marked junction where the Furlan path to Gradiška Tura branches off to the left.
We continue right where signposts for Gradiška Tura via the Otmar path direct us. The path then runs on a somewhat steeper slope where some fixed protection also helps us. On such a path we then reach the panoramic Oltar.
From Oltar we continue on the steep path, which is partly secured with a steel cable or pegs, and soon we are again at a junction. This time the usual easier path to Gradiška Tura branches off to the left, and we head right towards the Otmar path. After a short traverse, the path brings us below the wall where the secured climbing path begins.
Before entering the climbing section of the path, we equip ourselves with a helmet and self-belaying kit. Climbing gloves are also recommended. On the initial section, which is the hardest part of the path, we first ascend steeply upwards on numerous stirrups. The path then turns left and follows a very exposed wall traverse where numerous stirrups still assist us. After the traverse, the path turns right upwards and ascends over a short overhang (difficulty up to C).
Above the overhang follows a slightly less demanding ascent on stirrups, which brings us to a ledge by a tree. Above the tree, we then ascend on a still relatively steep but well-structured slope where, besides the steel cable, some stirrups or rock-carved steps occasionally assist us. The path here runs somewhat to the right, later turns left upwards, and brings us to easier terrain where the secured path ends briefly. Here a transverse path from the top of the Furlan path also joins from the left.
We continue on the panoramic path, which quickly brings us back to the steel cables. First we ascend along the steel cable on structured rock, then follows an ascent on stirrups with whose help we also climb over a very short overhang. The path then turns right and follows a somewhat exposed traverse, which brings us to the next stirrups. With the help of numerous stirrups we ascend the wall upwards. We continue somewhat to the right again and the path brings us to somewhat less steep and more vegetated terrain. Here we then ascend along the steel cable for some time on a slightly less demanding slope and somewhat higher the secured path ends briefly again.
We continue right on the path, which past a memorial plaque brings us to the last section of the secured path.
Here we steeply ascend again with the help of stirrups and then for some time ascend quite steeply on a wide gully. In the last part follows an ascent over a short chimney, then the secured path ends.
At the end of the secured path, where an easier path also joins from the left, we continue straight and after approximately 10 minutes of ascent reach the panoramic summit.
The described path is categorized as a very demanding mountain path, for ascending it the use of a self-belaying kit and helmet is mandatory. In the initial part, which reaches difficulty level C in the overhang, some arm strength is also needed. The secured path is 450 meters long and has 240 meters of elevation gain.
route map - Gradiška Tura
The trip can be extended to the following destinations: Furlanovo zavetišče pri Abramu ( 50 min), Vojkova koča na Nanosu
We recommend: trips from the same starting point, similar trips, panorama, summit register
Photos:
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Discussion about the trip Gradišče - Gradiška Tura (Otmar route)
AAvrikelj9. 06. 2019
damijan6614. 06. 2019
Could someone make a comparison of this path with the red variant of Grančišče?
JORDAN15. 06. 2019
Otmarjeva climbed today and I can praise the builders. Today it was dry and in my assessment technically a bit easier but longer than the red Graniščišče. Practice it first with Furlanova for warm-up.
VanSims25. 06. 2019
Aha, I would say quite a bit easier.

Reaches some very short C's. The rest is easier, lots of long B's and A/B's. Not to underestimate though. Rather comparable to blue (somewhat harder).

For those progressing in ferratas by difficulty maybe: Furlanova, blue Mojstrana, Otmarjeva, then 2-3 a bit harder in between and then red Mojstrana.
Jurc8925. 02. 2020
Is the path marked to go first to Furlanova, then descend to the start of Otmarjeva? Regards
darinka425. 02. 2020
Everything is marked there. The path is also arranged so that you can bypass the demanding first part and go via Furlanova and continue on Otmarjeva to the top.
Berstuk23. 10. 2020
We were there at the beginning of October - wonderful nasmeh
But I didn't notice (nor look) where one could bypass the first part of Otmarjeva.
I'm thinking of taking my parents, it wouldn't be a problem for mom, but dad hasn't done more than Hvadnik or Aljažev in Mojstrana yet. Physically he's excellently fit for his 67 years, but I wouldn't drag him through that part...
Is there any shortcut or sign?
Thanks nasmeh
bongo23. 10. 2020
The bypass junction (about 2-3 minutes after descending from Furlanova) is not marked, but you can't miss it. There is an information board by the path, and the bypass looks a bit overgrown, but it's not, just less trodden.
And kudos to PD Vipava for maintaining Gradiška Tura. Good luck
Berstuk15. 11. 2020
Bongo, thanks for the info nasmeh We'll go when they lift the measures cool
PUHIPUHI30. 04. 2021 19:55:11
I'm interested if anyone has experience, how quickly this wall dries after rain? If it rains again tonight, is a visit to this via ferrata sensible tomorrow morning, or will it be too slippery? Thanks
kraška sapca8. 02. 2022 11:41:23
Yesterday 7.2.2022 I climbed Gradiška with a girl named Daša. DAŠA, if you're reading this, please contact me so I can send you the photos nasmeh

Otherwise, response to the last comment: yesterday two who slept over at Tura camp said it was raining in the morning, when I arrived around 11 o'clock, the rock was already completely dry.
Both paths are well maintained, no damage, cables tight as strings. But it's not a category for beginners, in my opinion.
Hribovc8229. 04. 2022 19:00:28
Today climbed Otmar's via ferrata pleasant via ferrata plus very well protected nasmeh

And a short video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hqS9xRH9xXA&t=144s
Danak26. 11. 2022 12:53:10
Hello,

I have done the Gradiška tura several times, as well as all three via ferratas in the Glinščica valley. Which one would be suitable in terms of difficulty for the next challenge?
Thanks for the answers nasmeh
turbo27. 11. 2022 11:29:14
This would probably appeal to you, it's not overly demanding, but the surroundings are beautiful, say suitable for a change from the coastal lowlands to the Carnic highlands. Zermula via ferrata, then on to Zuc della Guardia, where there's another mini ferrata. Optionally before Guardia, a walk to the grassy Monte Pizzul, nice viewpoint. After the tour, delicacies at Lonice pass (passo Cason di Lanza), there also cheese to take home, maybe salami too nasmeh

https://philippsteiner.eu/2019/09/monte-zermula-2143m-klettersteig/

https://escursionismo.tosolini.info/2016/06/ferrata-degli-alpini-al-zuc-della-guardia-salita-sul-monte-pizzul/

https://www.hribi.net/izlet/lonice___passo_del_cason_di_lanza___lanzenpass_zermula_via_ferrata/27/2589/5717

https://explorerfvg.com/luoghi/malghe/cason-lanza/
avrikelj27. 11. 2022 22:28:50
Today, if you've climbed the harder Otmarjeva with sections marked D and E (with feet on friction and without help from pegs and footrests), then you won't have trouble on any Slovenian via ferrata.
darinka43. 04. 2023 21:43:23
We went in the morning from Kamp tur. First to Furlanova. Descended to the start of Otmarjeva. No crowds at all. It was quite calm in the wall. Only a bit windy at the top. But the day was really nice - sunny.
MinasTirith29. 04. 2023 18:28:24
Hello,

does anyone know if someone has hiked the Furlanova and Otmarjeva pot ferratas these days? I'm interested in the conditions, as I plan to do the hike (via ferrata) on May 15 or 16.

All information is welcome.

Thank you in advance for the information.
bpavsic29. 04. 2023 19:33:53
Yes, we just climbed both today. Conditions were great.
We started around 8:00, weather was cloudy and just right for climbing. Later, when returning (around via Plaz to Gradišče, compared to the direct path down, this is the "highway", takes about 1h), the sun was out and it got quite hot.
The cables are all fine, taut. No crowds, met only a couple of people, even at camp Tura parking spots were free all day.

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/11005455622
MinasTirith16. 05. 2023 10:44:41
I was on the mentioned via ferrata on 16.5.2023. The path is well maintained, without peculiarities or dangers.
balon1. 02. 2024 08:03:09
Hello, I'm interested in the conditions for the ascent? Is anything frozen, and what is the path like continuing to Abram?
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