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Mangart via Via della Vita ferrata

rok.si5. 08. 2020 08:55:14

matic4, I'm wondering if the red bivouac Bussettini is open (or maybe locked due to corona?). I'm thinking of a similar tour to Mangart (maybe in reverse) continuing over the Ponc ridge. Thanks!

Ivona Bogović5. 08. 2020 09:15:36

Rok.si, since we can't hike in SLO from HR at this time, we hike in IT. All bivouacs we passed have a sticker that they shouldn't be used due to corona, but they are open and people use them.

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rok.si5. 08. 2020 09:50:17

Thanks for the info, Ivona!

(+1)

2061alessio5. 08. 2020 11:46:22

Ferrata "via della vita" permanently closed, this year CAI FVG mountain guides plan to finish/even renovate the last part, no news that they have done it yet; due to covid-19 bivouacs in all Italy remain open only for possible emergency and not for staying.

(+9)

matic45. 08. 2020 22:42:12

Ivona, winter gear not needed.
rok.si, if going towards Ponc, I advise taking a rope. On Vevnica-Strug you can run into torn protections.

Ivona Bogović6. 08. 2020 11:40:13

matic4, thanks nasmeh

Ivona Bogović9. 08. 2020 09:31:30

Belopeška lakes - ferata Via della Vita - Bivak Tarvisio - Koritniški mali Mangart - Huda Škrbina - Vrh Kozlovke - vrh Planje - Mangart - bivak Nogaro - Belopeška lakes 08.08.2020.

Friday and Saturday were gorgeous, dry and sunny so due to crossing steep grasses between Huda Škrbina and Mangart we chose Saturday for this tour. The ferrata is still closed but people still use it. 2/3 of the ferrata is in very good condition. Last 1/3 not so but it can be passed all nicely and slowly. Before exit from scree proper ferrata direction continues left, but marks exist right too, it's quite exposed direction so who likes it knows. After bivak Tarvisio we head to Koritniški mali Mangart. A bit hard to find way which direction because marks faded but here and there some mark so it goes! Views in every moment which take breath away don't lack. Part with crossing steep grasses we crossed slowly. To summit bit more, our direction connects to Italian path. All in all we enjoyed every moment.

Bivak Tarvisio and Koritniški mali Mangart in the background.

Mangart and the crossing of steep grass that follows.

Towards Mangart, joining the Italian path.

(+9)

GregorM13. 09. 2020 02:39:42

Yesterday I went up Via della Vita to MKM. As Ivona already wrote, lower part of the ferrata nicely renovated, upper all the same as before.
Recorded some with helmet camera: Via della Vita

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janezs7313. 09. 2020 10:13:07

special tour, Gregor, especially descent velik nasmeh

haridautovic13. 09. 2020 20:18:56

12.9.2020 / Ferrata Via Della Vita born in far 20s, built by Italian alpini for control of today's border with Slovenia. First called Vie della mortale (path of death) later named Via della vita (path of life). What to say about this path I'll quote some already said opinions. ,,How to describe the tour easiest? Demanding in all meanings of the word. Shows how ascent, even if so demanding, tour never ends. At summit you're only halfway. In times, as it turns out, not even halfway. For sure this is tour no true mountaineer should miss, nor any alpinist be ashamed of. Ascent via ferrata Via della vita counts as hardest ascent in Julian Alps,,, No more words needed. Very demanding and strenuous secured climbing path. Only for most experienced and fit. ,, Secured climbing path Via della vita or Slovenian “Pot življenja”, boldest and hardest mountain “ferrata” in Julian Alps, rising to Vevnica. All accesses to mountain hard, but this one most beautiful and that preserved its originality. ,,, and our ascent route,, found most comfortable variant for ascent due to descent to car. Started at Mangart saddle crossed border and descended past bivak Nogara towards Belopeška lakes, somewhere at 1500m branches path to Zacchi hut, followed to marked path from lakes to ferrata VDV, until here did good 800m descent and re-ascent to ferrata. Crawled this wonderful spectacular north wall Forcella Segherza, 2160m - Via ferrata Della Vita arrived to Bivak Tarvisio Busettini, called eagle nest probably due hard access there, rested well slowly and followed looong ridge traverse towards Mangart. Ascent to small koritniški mangart very demanding with lots natural holds and poorly marked path, on whole traverse awaits us wild at once wonderful and panoramic countless ascents and descents draining last atoms of strength. Continuation path over Huda škrbina, Vrh planje and steep grasses didn't deter us from ascent to Mangart with last spice of this tour. Slowly descended to Mangart saddle, to car with huge good mood although quite exhausted but satisfied and overjoyed full of enthusiasm over tour course that lasted 10h 30m, almost 30km as watch showed and 1820m ascent and 1847m descent.

We started at Mangart Saddle at sunrise.

The ascent changes direction several times, again above the entrance section of the via ferrata.

Nicely secured section of the via ferrata.

View from the via ferrata to Mangart or Belopeška lakes.

Where now, how to reach the metal plates.

the only via ferrata where there is no room for romance

full of elan she just continued,,on the ladders — to/on ferrata Via della vita.

good thing they installed strong chains here ,,

finally we both climbed the via ferrata to the end,,Bivak Tarvisio Busettini,,but that's only the first third

view back at the bivouac and Vevnica in the background

the ascent over M.Koritniški mangart is no easier than the via ferrata,,I'd even say more demanding, following the faded markers is a real art

when Mangart first appears to us don't rejoice too much,,the path to it is very long and exhausting, countless ascents and descents follow

we take a breather almost above the clouds,,

there still follows a long and demanding traverse of steep grass,,above Loško koritnica

So happy and joyful not for a long time,,

Only the descent to the saddle remains, and the loop will be closed.

(+9)

redbull13. 09. 2020 20:47:26

Nice tour, only with the mentioned long ridge traverse to Mangart I wouldn't quite agree, maybe rather from Visoka Ponca to Mangart mežikanje

Good luck

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haridautovic13. 09. 2020 20:56:13

redbull probably it seemed so to us two, because we were able to descend from Mangart saddle where we crossed the border around 2100m and descent to 1350m, repeated ascent via ferrata to bivouac Tarvisio and then countless short ups and downs, at the end we finally managed ascent to Mangart too, lp nasmeh

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janezs7320. 09. 2020 10:16:41

Predecessors gave me the idea for a unique trip last week - just that I deliberately did it at a bit more unusual times to make it even more magical, and with necessary adjustments to avoid crowds velik nasmeh

So at 20:30 I head off from Laghi di Fusine. Although they renewed the red dots to the start of Via della Vita (and since I wasn't paying attention to them), I still turn left too early above the huge scree deposit below. Apart from laughter and a couple of minutes staring into the darkness ("where did the path go") no problems zmeden

Then no orientation problems to the start, just steep scree velik nasmeh

When I was here last 5 years ago, the entrance to the climbing part was "freely after Prešeren" with serious free climbing insert, today a bunch of drilled pegs and of course the cable completely tame the character of the trip, so Via della Vita has practically lost its entry filter. No problems at first... According to the video posted by GregorM 14 days ago, they are actively renovating the path these days - where there were slabs before, there are none now, anchor bolts and some metal hooks are prepared. Also in the previous 10 m only anchor bolts waiting for the cable. Higher up same story to the first traverse right - from there the path still awaits renovation. That's why the sign below that the path is not passable... At two places you just have to find your own way.
At the bivouac at 0:20...
In the morning I continue half an hour before dawn in a beautiful setting. About 5 min after the bivouac there are reliable enough cables at the descent to the first notch and then for a while more, to the first grasses... from there you're lucky if you "accidentally" grope the remains of the marking or recognize the remains of some cairn among the pile of stones... not that it's hard. Global orientation is simple - just follow the gully, but in steep crumbly terrain it's not good to stray in the wrong direction, because problems usually appear quickly when there's nowhere to go... the key spot is of course the vertical chimney/crack (a bit left of the main gully), equipped with old 8mm cable. Anchors still hold. If it were a real ferrata (and you climbed on the cable), it would have Austrian grade D in that geometry (due to two slightly overhanging sections). But if you move your body quite out and climb the spot freely, the passages are quite easy (II)... On M. Koritniški Mangart the view is really insanely beautiful - all the giants of the Julians in front of you, ridges around in abundance, walls surging into the sky, typical autumn foggy sea below makes everything even more dramatic.
The ridge to Huda Škrbina is easy, practically a walk. But the descent to the notch without the secured section (just behind the summit of Huda Škrbina we join the Slovenian path) would be a challenge, I would definitely rappel at least once.
From the notch to Mangart grasses and grasses zadrega

. For those who have psychological issues with such passages, I suggest using ice axe/hammer/pickaxe. Ideal tool for better feel. But the path is always wide enough for a stable step even without it and it's not as bad as it looks from afar.

I avoided the summit of Mangart because the crowd was indescribable. There was already enough to the saddle - the path there is desperately worn. Mangart won't see me except in winter anymore...
Descent past Nogara bivouac nice but long. Here you first see the full size of Mangart (if you don't drive to it or the saddle by car).

A trip of superlatives in every way, literally.

Before sunrise at the Bivouac above Zagače, MKM direction.

... and the ridge towards Rateški ponci.

View on the bivouac from the path (better from off-trail) towards MKM.

Passage from the first notch under the cliffs to the north side.

Landmark - gully in the middle from afar...

To there along the bend from the north side... at the beginning some cables, then pathless.

After scree comes a nice chimney/cleft (depending on where you place the body while climbing).

View from MKM is wonderful (this is towards the east).

Descent into the notch (under the top of Hude škrbine) would be spicy if not secured.

Further passages are nice, although they look horrible from afar.

Look back at the ridge (H.škrbina in the middle).

Here the path joins the normal ascent to Mangart (from the Italian side).

and then from the saddle towards Belopeška Lakes past Bivak Nogara

it takes quite a while to the lakes, just from the saddle almost 1200 m descent

entire fortress from border point at Ratečajh looks like this (MKM left, M right)

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MANGRT23. 08. 2021 21:46:19

To the start a bit on snow, in between already new cables, upper part under renovation - all praise to the contractors!
To Mangart nothing special, from the top Slovenian way, continue via italiana past the bivouac and back to the lakes.

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2061alessio6. 09. 2022 10:56:12

after expert work fully renovated -via ferrata- is now officially open again after a long time. mežikanje

(+6)

S.Maja1. 09. 2025 21:41:08

15.8.2025
It's not quite a "fresh" trip, as I already wrote the post once and successfully deleted it nasmeh

, but maybe it still helps someone nasmeh

We started at Laghi di Fusine, climbed via della Vita first to Vevnica, descended to bivouac A. Bussetini then over MKM across Huda Škrbina to Mangart and back to Laghi di Fusine.
Via della Vita is renovated, and there is a new cable to the top of Vevnica; they fixed all the "hangers" to the bivouac. The path over MKM has new dots, but the dots are a bit differently routed than about two years ago (scattered a bit here and there), and it is also full of scree as if something "collapsed" not long ago; over the crack the cable is in good condition. The grasses are still steep velik nasmeh

some cables on steep grasses "hang", but right in the upper part where the path joins the Italian path they started renovating the path and it's very wide.